Been using 1 1/4 inch custom solid steel lowering blocks for
about 8 months now. The U bolts are double nutted for extra
strength to handle torque from the mighty NV3500. I think the
rearend would go before these gave way.
GS -
> >But I've never seen a PROPERLY TORQUED block move, crack, fall apart,
> >or have any adverse effect.
>
> I have personal experience using 3" blocks, particularly the cast aluminum
> variety.
> I installed a set just to check the visual height of a project. I took the
> vehicle home
> went for a ride in the local canyon. The next day we threw the truck on the
> rack and
> there were small cracks through the blocks. We torqued the H*** out of the
> ubolts so
> that wasn't the problem. What the real culprit is is the strength of the
> connection when
> using tall blocks. Think about going in a real tight circle......lets
> say...1 g cornering.
> This cornering force produces a lot of torque on the connection between the
> leaf spring
> and the axle. When you move the axle farther away from leaf, you INCREASE
> the torque
> this connection sees. We use 1" blocks made of steel as our standard design
> criteria
> to minimize this force.
>
> >I'm running slicks and
> >launching with juice and have done it with 3" blocks.
>
> axle torque loads the block along its axis, thus works for drag strip
> applications okay.
> Cornering loads the block in the weak direction
>
> >Just remember 240 ft/lbs is the magic number for the U bolts
>
> Sounds about right, USE and impact gun if at all possible.
>
> >the only problem with a de-arched is that you can't haul as much (from what
> I've heard).
>
> The problem is lack of suspension travel with a de-arched stock leaf. We
> always add a
> secondary type leaf spring to help with this problem, but the best cure is
> an air-bag assist
> for the leaf spring.
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Feb 06 2004 - 11:47:49 EST