an easy way to get the thermo out FWIW:
1) Move the AC support bracket that extends over to the intake manifold,
this'll give you a straight vertical approach to the rear thermo housing
bolt
2) remove the housing bolts, and YES get a telescoping magnet (craftsman
~$10, 15lb pull) ALSO remove the hose from the radiator
3)lift housing et.al. out, keep the hose ON
4) do your thermo work/hose replacement/whatever..
5) reinstall everything, I use a small peice of cardboard crammed between
the bolt and socket wall to hold the bolt vertical, just make sure you don't
cross thread....
start to finish in 8 min tops
____________________________________________
Jon Smith-Raleigh,NC-http://www4.ncsu.edu/~jdsmith4
'95 318 auto CC 4x4: Accel Supercoil, JBA headers,
dual glasspack, 14x3 FABM, F&B Stage I TB, !EGR,
MSD 8.5's, self-moded intake, 180 degree thermo,
ASP crank pulley, 16" Hayden elec. fan, MP SBEC,
BEST: 0-60 in 6.3 & 1/4mi 15.4@88.95
207.2 RWHP, 276.2 RW ft/lbs
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Dester223@aol.com>
To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 12:50 AM
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Leaking Coolant
> maybe the hose into the waterneck developed a few fractures and just leaks
> there. OR maybe the water neck itself is leaking. From changing my
> thermostat to a 180 degree one. I can say it's a B@#$@# if you don't have
> small hands and a LOT of patience.
> I think you have to remove the alt to gain better access to it. so yes,
the
> serpentine belt is going off. also. if you take the A/C compressor off.
it
> should be a breeze.
> -Dester
>
> PS. get one of those magnetic picker uppers because i know you're gonna
drop
> the bolt and wish you had one.
>
>
> << The coolant was below the a/c compressor and alternator. I replace my
> radiator at 38,000 miles.
> >>
>
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