> On Wed, 12 Jan 2000, The Man From Utopia wrote:
> [...]
> > The link above is actually a pic of the 5x7 speaker
> mounting but on the
> > bottom of the pic you see that cushion, well it is just
> below that and the
> > seat. I don't know how much space is there in 97+ Dak's but
> there is enough
> > room on the 95 for a small one( in the 10lb range). Mine is
> a refillable
> > class ABCD. It has been used numerous times (but never on
> my Dak...knock on
> > wood) and is good for small fires, but for a fully involved engine
> > compartment fire(flames rolling out of the grill and wheel
> wells) it is not,
> > you'll need a 1 1/2" booster line at that point, plus the
> truck is toast at
> > that point anyway.
>
>
> Speaking of which... Has anyone here ever fabbed up an engine
> compartment fire extinguishing system? I have heard from other posts
> on the DML that when an engine fire happens, it can easily melt the
> protective coating on the hood release cable and cause the latch to
> malfunction. (So you basically stand by while your Dak burns to the
> ground.) What I have in mind is perhaps 4 nozzles set to a wide spray
> pattern under the hood, and a big bottle in the bed. Flip a
> switch, and
> the engine bay gets engulfed with the white stuff.
>
> I immagine it would be similar to a nitrous setup, where you have
> a pressurized bottle, and a solenoid to either open and close the
> bottle or to simply block the flow. Then you run lines (of a
> sufficient
> PSI rating) up into the engine bay. I would guess most of the parts
> you'd need could be found in a hardware store, but what about
> the nozzles?
> Any recommendations as to what to use to start and stop the flow?
Best bet is go to the professionals. Look in your local phonebook for a
Firematic specialist. They can set you up with all the plumbing, and
whatnot. It'll cost you, but it'll save you Dak. One suggestion is not to
use solenoids. First thing to go in an engine fire is the
electronics(actually most engine fires nowadays are electrical in nature, as
long as you keep an clean engine bay). Use a pull chain. Since you're in a
cold area if you put the tank in the bed and run plumbing to the engine
there is the possiblity of condesation building up, and freezing in the pipe
from the tank to the engine bay which would render the system useless.
Greg
95 DSCC v6 5spd
Rahway NJ
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