I got to the site and copied this for everyone. Sorry if it looks horrible.
Erika
Power Rear Quarter Window Install
By Fellow R/Ter:
Chris Kirby cdkirby@mindspring.com
Disclaimer.
Good day to you. This letter will be addressed to everyone that asked about
it. So if there are any reasons you feel that I am being derogatory or not
politically correct, I am sorry. This is a weekend project that went well.
These are not detailed instructions and should not be considered by anyone
that they are by any means ground for legal actions of any sort. They are
strictly what I did word for word. This project was performed on a 1999
INTENSE BLUE DODGE DAKOTA R/T CLUB CAB. Any difference in year models or
substructures is not deliberate. If you run into a problem, go around it. I
in no way intend to make money or to copy the idea of the subject in the
magazine. I am following a vision I had long before the magazine, but do not
oppose it, for it is the reason I have the power windows. It was a really
great idea.
Introduction:
I was reading my issue of Mopar Muscle (May 1998, weekend how-to’s) and I
came across a very interesting article. FLIPPIN’ OUT cheap and easy electric
quarter windows for your Dakota. If you’ve got this issue, then you already
have all you need for the instruction’s part. If not, stay tuned.
First Outing of the day:
Plan a Saturday morning, around 8:00. Leave your house and get to your
local, or maybe not so local pull yard. I had to go to four different yards
before finding what I needed. You want to try to go to a mini van or
Chrysler yard. After those yards just call around.
When you get there, you’re going to want to look around or ask for a 90-99
Chrysler mini van. When you find it, look inside. On the overhead console of
the older body style mini vans you’ll see two buttons. Left and right vent.
If you see them, you’ve got your power windows. On the newer style mini
vans, they put the controls on the driver side door finger-panel.
Start pulling out everything. The ceiling and the rear side panels. You’ll
see that each motor and actuator are both held by two bolts, simply unbolt
them and there yours. It is an excellent idea to unscrew the window bracket
screw before you unbolt the window actuator. If you do it after, you’re
going to have to hold the outside with a pair of pliers. Pain the in rear.
Next, the overhead console should slide forward off the brackets that hold
it up. After this, take the button fixture out of the console. They should
pop out. It is a good idea to keep the face like fixture. You will have to
break or cut it off. This way you can take the buttons and just mount them
anywhere.
The motors have a plug right on them where the buttons and power hook up.
Unplug the wire and pull the wires through the vans sub structure. When you
get to the driver’s side, you will need to pop out wire holders. Otherwise
you will not be able to pull the wire out. You will se the backside of the
wire holders poking through the holes in the sub structure. (It’s confusing
but I know you can do it.) Pop out the wire holders and pull the wire out of
the sub structure. The passenger side just runs along the roof, it is held
up by what seemed to be pull-ties.
Now you’ve got all the components you need. Be sure to kept all the bolts
and all the wire and buttons. The buttons will have six wires. Left and
right motors each receive two. And the other two wires are negative and
positive. When cutting the buttons from the rest of the wire mess, leave as
much of the two other wires as you can. This will make installation much
easier.
Note: The article states that the motor cords are longer on the passenger
side. The one’s that I bought are the same length. So there may be some
difference in these instructions, though everything should work the same.
Now the parts should cost you no more than $150 bucks. If it does, haggle
and explain your cool idea. Pull yard employees are very flexible.
If you can’t find any and are just dying to get these power windows, you can
go to your local dealer and order the parts brand new. But extremely
expensive, this is where I went first, and then left quickly.
Now you’re home:
Be sure to have:
Some 12-inch pull-ties
10mm Socket and Socket wrench
A T-50 Torque "Hex" socket.
Phillips and Standard Screwdrivers
Power drill and set of drill bits
Wire stripers and wire fasteners.
Some extra wire, though you should have enough.
The Goods
A Cold One, or two, or three
And some music
Time To Start:
Take everything out of your truck. Now, the article states that you have to
remove everything from the rear. You don’t. Take a long standard screwdriver
and open your rear-sliding window. Put the screwdriver in between the back
wall and the plastic back rest. Slide it in and pull out like a pry bar. You
will hear a popping sound. That’s the plastic "grips" giving way so you can
remove the plastic backrest. With this removed you’ll see four Phillips
screws holding on your cloth backrest, unscrew then and push down on your
backrest, then pull out. You will notice that the seat belts are held in the
plastic holders with plain buttons. Unsnap them and pull out the seat belts.
Then put the two backrest piece’s you just removed in the bed of the truck.
You will next notice that the side wall forms are also screwed into the cab
rear wall. Unscrew those also, there are only two Phillips screws just as
the cloth backrest. At this time get you T-50 socket and unbolt your seat
belts. They will be on fairly tight, just as you should put them back on
fairly tight. ONLY UNDO THE FRONT SEATBELTS. You will not have to undo the
rear one’s. Now slide either your fingers or your screwdriver behind the
plastic form just above the seat belt bolt and pull. Once again you should
hear a pop and again you’ll be removing the panel. There are three "Grips."
One in the upper corner near the rear seatbelt and two below that on either
side of the panel. Then you simply lift and pull. Now you have to kind of
bend the bottom part of the panel and dip the top part out of the doorway.
You will notice that the front seatbelt stays in the panel. That’s ok then
set the panel down on the ground outside the truck. (Don’t step on it
getting in and out of the truck.)
Look at the sidewall. You should see your speaker mounted. Below are three
cut out’s in the sheet metal or substructure of the cab. You are going to
mount the motor in the hole closest to the doorway or front of the truck.
Note:
When installing the motors, look at the actuator pad. You will have to CUT
the mounting pad of the actuator so that the pad is flush with the pulley.
When you put the motor up to the wall, you will want to put the black object
on the motor in first, then the rest. You should end up with the motors
mounting bracket holes facing the front of the truck. Then you will line up
the holes with the right side of the square cut out. Drill two holes and
bolt the same bolts that were attached in the van right to it. Tighten the
bolts good. Then drill holes on either side of the black object of the motor
so you may put pull-ties through and tighten down the black part so there is
no vibration from the motor working. The cords will then make a backwards
"J" along the wall up to the actuator. The cords can just rest there, they
don’t need to be harnessed.
Now the tricky part. On the mounting pads I simply drilled a hole and put
the stock bolt for the manual actuators through the new hole in the actuator
pad and mounted it like that. I then later drilled three self-taping sheet
metal screws through the pad in various places. The actuator will not move.
Tighten the bolt very tight, just as the seatbelt bolt.
Now simply route your button wires under the carpet, I did not have to
remove the seats, I simply laid the wires next to the them under the carpet.
Run your wires to the plugs and put male to female. Walla.
Then find a neat place for your switches and route your power and negative
wires to a constant power, and the chassis. Test, test, test.
Now jump up and down like a kid with the best toy on the block. Now settle
down so your friends and family don’t report you.
OPTIONAL:
When you put the side panels back together you will notice that the
actuators hit the panel. If you want you can modify your panel and grind the
plastic down a little. Or you can simply let it rub and stretch the screw
holes for the panels. I modified my panels, but I am a perfectionist.
Last but not least:
SHOW OFF TO EVERYONE. Every single person that I have shown this to either
wants it done to his/her truck and or car. Or, they think that it is pretty
damn cool. The guys at the local Audio shop said that, "If you put the
switches somewhere nicely done, you’ll have a great advantage in shows, the
judges love ingenuity." I guess that was a compliment.
I’m not sure how many times I’ve looked at other trucks and said, "Can your
truck do this."
>From: "R\\A Chapman" <rchapman@iserv.net>
>Reply-To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
>To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
>Subject: DML: Re: Power rear side windows
>Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 13:06:28 -0500
>
>yes will work by my article
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Andy Levy <andylevy@bigfoot.com>
>To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 9:04 PM
>Subject: DML: Power rear side windows
>
>
> > A while back some folks were talking about putting the motors from a
> > Caravan into the rear side windows on Dakota CCs to make them
> > power-operated. The page used to be at
> > http://users.jnlk.com/dakrt/powerrearqtr.htm but I can't get a
> > connection to it now (anyone else?). Anyway, I just found out a person
> > I know has an '89 Caravan with the power windows in back, and was
> > curious if those would fit in a Dakota (the page said '90 or later, I
> > think, but I don't remember exactly). Any ideas? He may be dumping the
> > van in the near future, and asked him to save them if he can.
> > --
> > -andy
> >
> > http://home.twcny.rr.com/andylevy/ --- andylevy@bigfoot.com
> > -----------------------------------------------------------
> > Let's all get GNU'd together!
> > -----------------------------------------------------------
> >
>
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