Ok guys and gals this came across another mailing list I belong
to and thought it might interest some of you...just remember this
is not me it is someone else speaking.
Well, not being one of the top 1000 devout Christians on this
list, I still gotta say Thank You Jesus, Thank You God!!
Miracles are great, but somebody talking about oil that actually
knows something???? Wow, Nirvana is come, and it is in the form
of a Vulcanite! hallelujah. And hey -- this 60-40 info. really
is interesting. thanks Moxy. This is almost as good as those
dang lowers you make. Larry
-------------
David,
I am a Petroleum Engineer in south Louisiana, and my uncle is a
marketing executive with Phillips Petroleum. Through my training,
my work, and my association with my uncle, I think I can speak
with confidence concerning the motoroil issue.
The act of constantly switching from one oil brand to another has
nothing to do with the accumulation of sludge, gum, or varnish.
This is what causes all three of them: Conventional
(non-synthetic) oils are refined products from naturally produced
crude oils. The refining process is not a perfect process in that
it is not possible to remove all of the asphaltines, paraffins,
and ash from them. The highest grade, most pure, conventional oil
on the market is Pennzoil. But even Pennzoil is only 60%
lubricant. That means that a whopping 40% of the product is
something other than lubricant that could not be removed during
the refining process. This is the material that chemically reacts
with engine gasses and produces sludge and varnish. This is why
you will never have sludge or varnish in an engine that uses
synthetic oil such as Mobil-1. Synthetic oils are manmade and are
100% lubricant plus a few non-reactive additives for enhanced
stability. There is simply nothing in synthetic oils to react
with the engine gasses to produce sludge or varnish.
Quaker State oils are notorious for producing varnish! They have
some of the lowest quality refined oils on the market. The only
way you could do worse is to use one of those recycled motoroils
that you can get dirt cheap through WalMart.
If you want to truly protect your bike, you have two choices:
1)Use a good Synthetic oil and change it out every 3000 miles. 2)
Use a high grade conventional oil or synthetic blend and change
it out every 2000 miles which is before the unrefined
contaminants can break down and deposit sludge or varnish in your
engine.
One more thing: The motorcycle oils by Kawasaki, Honda, and
others are all very good oils and you can't do wrong by using
them. Remember though, that they ARE conventional oils and must
be changed often to prevent sludge and varnish. Contrary to what
your dealer may tell you, it is not necessary to use a motorcycle
oil in your Vulcan. The V-Twin is a low RPM engine and does not
require the special zinc additives in motorcycle oils that are
needed in the high-reving sport bikes.
I think that now you can make a wiser choice. Let me know if you
have any questions.""
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