Ahh so true, but I had 2 kicker Comps in my old 88 for a little over a
year, Crutchfield had them rated as 300rms and 600peak, so I bought them
ran em off my 50x2 amp for 9 months, then when i had teh cash i bought an
amp rated at, you guessed it 300rms and 600peak, figuring a little over is
fine since most amps make more than they are rated at. Well long story
short 5 months after this both subs blew within weeks of each other, now I
am ripped so I call kicker and tell them the story, they tell me to take
them down to a local stereo shop to have the reason for them dying
diagnosed, it was simply too much power. So basically now I am very
careful about manufacturer claims on power handling and not exceeding those
factory claims. I try not to be a dick but I wanted to save dml space by
not putting this little story out the first time around. I hope this kinda
helps you see where I am coming from. After all kickers should be able to
handle that much power right?
Chris
>Here. I'll produce a subwoofer for you and I'll write (with a sharpie
>permanent marker) that it can take 5,000,000,000 watts. it'll be 10" and
>will fit into your thunderform. Now, the only bad thing is, you can only
>give it 5,000,000,000 watts for a nano second before it blows.
>
>Most "power rating" sheets are trash. To understand the car audio market
>more, get this. a WATT isn't a WATT. different companies have different ways
>of determining what a watt is and what peak and RMS wattage are. Take a
>Lanzar opti 50c for example. it is rated at 25x2 watts. it's a cheater amp
>where the competition was baised on amp power classes ( now it is based on
>cone area) sure it is RATED at 25x2 watts, but if you know how to use it
>right, 800x2 isn't out of the question.. So next time you dog on someone for
>giving you some good advice, why don't you jus spend that time to thank them
>for their suggestion(s)?
>- -Dester
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 20 2003 - 11:51:15 EDT