I'm running the Autometer A/F meter, which I hooked up to the computer wire
that reads the O2 voltage... so its using an o2 sensor (the stock one)
which means it *should* be really accurate
I got the meter from Summit (part # ATM-3375) which was $49.95
___________________
Tim Berry
Chesapeake, VA
97 CC, 4x2, auto, 318
Best 1/4: 14.10@96.8
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
> What kind of a/f meter do you have? I am only aware of two types, one is
an
> exhaust gas analyzer (extremely inacurate), and the other uses an O2
sensor
> (and even the wide-band sensors are only useful right around stoich). (of
> course it can be done indriectly via MAF or MAP and injector pulse-width,
> but this is just reversing what the computer has already done). Anyhow,
if
> you (or anyone else) could tell me of a good method of determining a/f
ratio
> (or name a good meter for this) I'd love to hear about it.
> By the way, I would be surprised if you see a large loss of power until
you
> get into a a/f ratio greater than 14.5:1. I belive your peak is around
> 11:1, but at WOT this is a bad thing (being pretty lean), and increases
the
> chance of hot-spots. Also, decreasing the advance will almost always
> decrease power (unless your advance is set high enough for full flame
> propogation to occur before the piston reaches TDC in which case you are
> probably knocking anyway). The only reason to retard the spark is to
> prevent knock.
>
> P.S. All my engine tuning knowledge comes from working on supercharged
> motorcycle engines, I can't see why the numbers wouldn't hold, but I most
> certainly could be wrong.
>
> .Geoff
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 20 2003 - 11:53:29 EDT