Appreciate your response Crit, but I have a 97,318,V8 so it should be no
problem, right?
I also want to thank all the guys that responded to all my questions (re:
sparkplugs, wires, thermostats etc.). You have been a great help.
Thanks again
Jay
-----Original Message-----
From: Crit Bennett <crit@engineer.com>
To: dakota-truck@BUFFNET.NET <dakota-truck@BUFFNET.NET>
Date: Monday, October 09, 2000 6:33 PM
Subject: RE: Re: DML: Need information on 4.7 Thermostat
>Jay,
> I know you were looking for Bernd, but I wanted to chime in. I don't
>think you originally specified that you have a 4.7 the first time around.
>Everything but the 4.7 is a drop-in affair, but the 4.7 has two main
>differences so you have to modify the 'ol standby 54 mm thermostat.
>
>1.) When you pull your t-stat, you'll notice a check ball on the flange
>that's very small and is about 30 degrees from vertical on the flange face.
>When you get the 180 t-stat, you'll need to drill a small hole, 1/32", to
>replicate this check valve, though I used a 1/16" and it did just fine.
>
>2.) The block and gasket are keyed such that the gasket can only be
>installed in one direction. The gasket is also keyed with a little rubber
>notch inside the groove so that the stock t-stat can only be inserted one
>way relative to the gasket and block. This is just to keep the check valve
>at the 30 degree position. I cut the block/gasket key off, rolled the
>gasket inside-out, and cut the gasket/t-stat key out with a straight razor
>blade. You can either do this, or notch the edge of the t-stat flange,
>whatever floats your boat.
>
>Those both having been done, just replace the t-stat per Bill's
>instructions, making sure to keep the hole you drilled in the flange toward
>the top of the block and with the spring and bulb oriented the right way.
>
>Good luck with it, and it really is a piece of cake
>
>Crit
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