--- "mike d." <miggitymike@fast4x4.net>
> wrote:
>>>The 2.5's actually make more power turbocharged....we have one in our race
>car running at 25psi boost.<<
>
>oh man... that's a endless battle right there =). I think the 2.2 is more
>popular becuase of parts availability.. but I could be wrong.
Parts availablity is equal, as they share almost all components, just crank and piston differences. After 89 they share the exact same block even.
>
>>>>My goal is just to get around 200hp @whls and 22+MPH.
>I drive 110miles a day just to work and back.
>I should be able to do that with less than 20psi of boost and a 2.5 <<
>
>spend some $$ on one of those electronic boost controllers and you could get
>some NICE mileage out of that motor. Turn it down to 6 or 7 lbs for the
>daily commute, but have the adjustability right on the dash so you can crank
>it up to 20+ for those pesky short merge lanes =)
>APEX makes a NICE unit for DSM's that measures boost and fuel pressure and
>has a big ol' LCD display... that way you don't have to get a boost guage.
>Real nice... maybe there's one for Turbo Converted Daks =)
I prefer to make my own multi-stage controllers:)
All it takes is a couple of Grainger valves, a used emissions control solenoid for each stage, and some switches.
Can cost as little as $20 for all of the stuff for a
3 stage system. We have a system like that on our Shelby Charger. Stage 1 is full pressure to the wastegate actuator for ~5psi, stage 2 goes through a WOT switch and toggle and diverts the pressure source through a Grainger valve(pages.cthome.net/gus) for 15psi and stage 3(manually unhooking the vac line) is NO pressure going to the actuator for 25psi. You have to lengthen the actuator arm (with a coupler nut) to get low enough boost to run with no boost to the actuator *in most cases*, otherwise you will melt something.
In our particular case, to get 25psi we had to shorten the actuator arm:) 100oct race gas is mandatory for the 25psi.
==
Dennis Doza II
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