Hi Mike,
Great job! I notice you set it up so you could revert back to stock
ignition, but can you revert back to stock coil. I can go back to either
one or both in less than 30 seconds.
As for mounting places, my ignition is on the left fender (have to move the
battery to install) right next to the PDU. My MSD coil is on the right
fender next to the PCM (had to move the cruise control, but had to do that
anyway for the intake). By mounting on the fenders, it's easy to reach the
nuts, just have to contort your arms and hands a bit. I went to Walmart and
bought rubber grommets which work perfectly as shock mounts ($1.50). I did
have to extend the small wires from the ignition (left fender) all the way
around to the right fender. That's ok, though. My MSD coil is in close
proximity to the stock coil but away from the heat. Stock coil remains in
place in case I have to go back. Secondary coil wire reaches both places
with no problem. All wires are in heat sheathing like the stock wiring
harnesses.
Ron
00 SLT QC 4X2 5.9 46RE 3.92 LSD
For modifications see my DML Profile
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@buffnet.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@buffnet.net]On Behalf Of Mike's Dakota
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 4:38 PM
To: Dakota Post Message
Subject: DML: MSD 6A and Blaste SS Install...Long post...Thanks Ron and
Chuck!
Well I finally got my MSD 6A installed how I wanted it. Many thanks to
those of you who have posted the installation on your web sites. (Chuck
"intense", Ron Wong) The information came in really handy.
I ended up making my own "universal harness MSD p/n 8873" I thought $22 was
a little steep for that so I got two packs of molex connectors from Radio
Shack p/n 274-222 (.99 each). This way I can revert back to the factory
ignition at any time within a matter of 5 minutes.
The install was pretty straight forward, it just took a while trying to
figure out where to mount the 6A and the Blaster SS. I mounted it on the
passenger side under the hood right in front of where the factory air box
was (I have a K&N Gen II) wires to the top. I did buy the vibration
mounting kit for the 6A (MSD p/n8823 $13) this made it possible to clear the
bolts coming through from the other side. Mounting the 6A was a chore, the
vibration mounts have to be secured from the back side with lock washers and
nuts, very difficult to get to them in the location I chose. I also ended
up having to relocate one of the horns onto the same mounting hole as the
other one to allow for clearance on the 6A. The stock location of the coil
seems to get allot of heat so I didn't want to mount it there. I mounted
the Blaster SS coil on the fender well between the washer fluid reservoir
and the heat shield for the Gen II. Again the vibration mounts for the coil
had to be bolted on from the other side too. I had to remove about half the
retaining clips from the wheel well liner to get to those. The mounting of
these I feel is optimal. The 6A is mounted away from the battery so there
is no interference with my audio system, it is shielded from heat, shielded
from water, mounted on a solid surface, and does not interfere with the air
flow to the intake or operation of any other components. The Blaster is
farther away from heat than the stock location, away from other electrical
devices, close enough to the distributor cap and is on a solid surface.
What do you think guys?
I used the diagram posted by Chuck as a model for the install. I installed
new ring terminals and heat shrink to the orange and black wires from the
MSD and hooked it up to the Blaster Coil.
I cut the factory coil wires and installed the molex connector to the coil
leads and the harness leads. I had to extend the small red and white leads
so I did so with 12ga copper wire (solder and heat shrink) and installed
another molex connector to mate to the factory harness connector. MSD
recommends that if you have to extend any wires you should use one gauge
larger wire.
I lucked out on the ground (thick black wire), two other grounds are
terminated under a bolt only about 3 inches from the 6A.
The power (thick red wire) needed to be extended to reach a 12 volt constant
source, I used some 10ga Rockford Fosgate wire I had laying around soldered
and heat shrinked that. I terminated it as Ron had suggested in his
instruction to the fuse/terminal block...the red side...<grin>....great
location, I was thinking that I was screwed because my audio stuff is taking
up all the outlets on my battery terminal block (Thanks Ron!)
The entirety of the wiring is dressed in 3/8 and 1/4 inch split loom and
follows the factory harness very closely, I also made sure all the
connections are tight and water proof with solder heat shrink, hell I even
gave the heat shrink treatment to all the crimp on terminals. All the
installation hardware with the exception of the molex connectors is stuff I
had laying around so, it kind of cleaned up my parts bin a little too. All
in all the project went very well, all the wiring looks OEM and yes sir,
it's got a little more kick and idles so smooth. No more ping either. Let
me know what you think of this install, I hope I thought of everything so I
don't have any problems with it in the future, please be critical. I will be
bringing up my website shortly and will have pictures of this install.
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