Jason,
the best place for tips on mounting a battery outside the engine
compartment is the NHRA rule book. I have done several battery relocations,
and the Three problems I have run into are...
#1 not enough power to starter/acc.
with the batt so far from it's orig location the power loss can reduce
the strength of your starter, and occasionally cause computer problems.
I have found that the best solution is to permanently mount one batt,
and use the shortest amount of wire possible, as well as the thickest and
best wire.
#2 no kill switch : many tracks follow this rule and if the battery is
outside the engine comp, a battery shut off switch is required for the
safety crew. this must be mounted at the rear of the car, be easily
accessible, and can be either a push/pull switch, or a lever switch.
Flaming River has many styles and some can even be used as a security
switch.
We used a switch with a push/pull lever for a friend's Pontiac. the
lever was removed for the street and the switch was hidden under the car.
at the track the rod and handle were inserter through a hole between
trunk and bumper, and through a hanger which located it to the switch, then
a pin held the rod to the switch.
#3 improper battery container/ hold down.
When the batt is in the trunk a fire wall is required between the
passenger compartment and the batt
in the trunk.
Also the batt must be in a sealed and vented box.
This is not nesicary as the batt will be outside the passenger
compartment.
You will need a proper hold down so that the batt is secured in place.
I would reccomend an optima batt under the bed, wired to replace the batt
under the hood. this can serve as your only batt.
If you want to be able to switch, use the thickest guage wire avaliable as
there will be a long path for the wire to the front of the truck, and then
to the starter.
Gregg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woodruff, Jason P" <Jason.Woodruff@West.Boeing.com>
To: "DML (E-mail)" <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 5:28 PM
Subject: DML: Re: Battery Relocation
> First, thanks for the quick and detailed responses
>
> Actually my first thought was to put it under the bed. There's a cumfy
spot
> on a cross brace on the drivers side well before the rear wheels. It
> wouldn't work with the stock bat (too big), but if I get a cheap small one
> it should fit.
>
> Ok new plan. Leave a cheep small bat under the bed, use quick disconnects
> to "activate/deactivate" it. When I'm racing I'll connect everything and
> pull the big bat out. When I'm not racing I'll disconnect both ends of
the
> small battery cabling and re connect/insert the big battery.
>
> I like the idea of big mock post so I can get some jumpers on there if
> needed.
>
> Gregg, could you expand on this push/pull switch, I don't know what this
> means, when you get a chance, off list is fine too. If I go under the bed
> then for sure I'll get a battery box, in the bed I don't think I'd need
one.
>
> Jay W
> 4.7L Auto Sport+ C.C. 2wd Black
> Mods Profile page at
> http://www.twistedbits.net/WWWProfile/dakota/Re5X8z5la@Ix2/profile.htm
>
>
> Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 13:31:03 -0800
> From: "Steven T. Ekstrand" <cyberlaw@earthlink.net>
> Subject: DML: Re: Battery Relocation
>
> Moroso makes a small black plastic remote battery post block. It has an
> insulated center post that you attach the two positive battery cables to.
> It's great for jump starting or charging when the battery is sealed away
in
> a box in the truck or under the bed.
>
> Yes I said UNDER the bed. If you're really ambitious thats the best place
> for autox. Get that weight down low and centered in the vehicle.
>
> For drag racing, as far back as possible and high is fine. Usually, far
> back passenger corner.
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> one caution on mounting a battery in the back for drag racing... any nhra
> tracks that follow the safety regs will require a push pull switch at the
> rear of the vehicle. as the bat is outside the passenger compartment just
> about any batt box or tray should be acceptable.
>
> also instead of getting the moroso cable kit it may be better to just go
to
> a welding shop for the cable... conducts better... buy the thickest cable
> they have, as you will be running this a long way and don't want a drop
in
> power.
>
> I have some other comments. but work is busy now.
>
> Gregg
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