Thanks Kyle. I'll let you know how it turns out!
--Aaron--
95 DSRC 4x4 V6
www.geocities.com/adakota4x4_95/
>From: "Kyle Kozubal" <grndak4x4@home.com>
>Reply-To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
>To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
>Subject: DML: Re: Re: Kyle!! - HELP!! - Water Pump Leak
>Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 02:01:22 -0600
>
> > > Got the dak back up and running tonight...took it for a little
> > > spin....brought it back and it's leaking. Don't even ask where, cause
>you
> > > all ready know....the pipe. What did you end up doing to solve the
> > problem?
> > > I know you bought some oversized o-rings. Did you add some RTV as
>well?
> > > Any help would be great. I'm going to tackle it in the morning....too
> > tired for today.
>
>Aaron,
>Sorry my bad luck spilled over into your Dakland, but atleast I can help
>you
>out to solve this leak. I ended not not using any RTV sealant, just what
>Dodge calls for : a stupid ole' o-ring. OK, first off, you will need to get
>some o-rings from the dealer. If you want, you can try to match up an
>o-ring
>from a parts store, but I didnt want to chance it, and paid a frigin $1.85
>per o-ring at the dealer. I went through like 3 o-rings before finally on
>the 4th try, things worked out. I finished the leak task on Tuesday and it
>has been dry since. Ok let's get started. First off, remove rubber heater
>hose from this dreaded metal heat pipe, the one which gets pushed into the
>water pump. Just think about this, nothing, I mean nothing really secures
>this pipe into the pump, other than that little bracket which gets bolted
>down. This is really a crappy design. OK.........next, unbolt the metal
>heater hose braket(9/16" socket I think?) and remove the metal pipe, and
>prepare for some coolant to leak out. I think I lost about a quart. You can
>drain the radiator if you want, to make things cleaner, but I didnt care at
>the point I was at. Next, check the hole in the water pump to make sure the
>o-ring isnt getting cut on a sharp edge, mine was very smooth. The metal
>heater hose's bracket which is welded onto the pipe will ultimately be the
>'tool' which is needed to determine how far into the water pump's hole the
>pipe can go. Put the bolt onto the threads, as if you were going to tighten
>the bracket down. When I say put it in, just slide the metal heater hose
>pipe into the pump(without an o-ring installed) and bolt down the bracket
>bolt. Then, with a small marker or an sharp object, mark on the metal
>heater
>pipe where the top of the hole is at on the pipe. Basically this will tell
>you how far into the pump the metal pipe will have to seat itself. I
>guarantee you when you pull the pipe out initially, you will have a
>cut-in-half o-ring. Install a new o-ring on the metal pipe, and be sure to
>use plenty of water soluable lubricant(like KY Jelly or marine based
>lubricant) on the lower section of the metal pipe, both above, below, and
>on
>the o-ring area. Not sure if Vaseline is water soluable or not. Anyways,
>slowly push the metal pipe into the water pump until the mark you made is
>at
>the top of the water pump's hole. Dont go too far in, cause by bringing the
>pipe back out is when the o-ring gets cut I think. It would help to have a
>second set of hands at this point to installed the bolt for the bracket and
>have them tighten it down. Reconnect the rubber heater hose/clamp and
>reinstall the serpentine belt, if you initially removed it. Hope this
>helps
>and isnt too confusing, as it is 2:00 am here :)
>Hope it works for you.
>Kyle
>93 Dakota 4x4 V6
>
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