C'mon (certain) guys.
Let's lay off Will, OK.
If my truck (exterior and interior) looked like his I'd be damn proud!
I have a 5 spd in my truck and the only thing I hate about it
is that little light on the dash that tells me when to shift.
And I'll be damned if I going to shift from 3rd to 4th, or 4th to 5th at
1500 RPM.
I totally agree with bringing the revs up a little when shifting, say maybe
3000 to 3500 RPM the odd time but that's me.
Others would say "You Wuss, you should shift at 5000 RPM".
But then that's me. It's my truck, and Will's truck is his!
I enjoy mine, and him, his. That's all that matters, isn't it?
To each his own, but I do agree on other's comments about
"getting on it a little" once and a while. It's good for it, right!!!
That's just my 3.18 cents worth.
Jay
-----Original Message-----
From: Arnoldo Silva <silva@rio.bravo.net>
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
Date: Monday, February 26, 2001 10:30 PM
Subject: Re: DML: RE: Re: Re: 4.7 to 3.7 = more problems???
>man you got serious problems with your head bro theres nothing wrong with
>your truck run the thing and forget about it. i thought i was anal
> about my truck i dont want to insult you but damn your weird.
>
>arnold
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Will Coughlin" <willcoughlin@hotmail.com>
>To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
>Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 11:44 PM
>Subject: Re: DML: RE: Re: Re: 4.7 to 3.7 = more problems???
>
>
>> True, it very well may be running as designed.I would just like to see it
>> run a little cooler.I've never been one to just ignore problems,or
>> irregularities. The dealer did want to sit the truck outside and let it
>run
>> and overheat,just to see what was causing the problem.I would not let
them
>> do it.If I leave it idling in warm weather(above 50*),it takes about 2
>> minutes to get "hot"(205ish) without the air on.With the air on,it takes
>> about 15-17 minutes to warm up to the same place on the gauge.When it is
>> cool(less than 45*),I can usually leave the truck idling with the a/c or
>hot
>> on defrost without it getting to 205.Without the A/C, it will go to
>205*,and
>> I don't know how much hotter it will get,as I haven't tried it.Ideally
the
>> motor would have a pre-luber on it so I wouldn't be as concerned about
the
>> starts,but it doesn't. Maybe one day I can add one, but I don't see much
>> point after you've ever started one without it. I'm concerned about oil
>> coking on the underside of the valve covers,timing covers,etc. when I
shut
>> it down hot.That's why I don't shut it off and restart it while pumping
>fuel
>> in it.Head cracking/warping and blowing headgaskets are very common
>problems
>> among Iron block/Aluminum head ebgines.I've never seen a 4.7L come apart
>or
>> fail due to this, but all the other Aluminum on Iron costruction engines
>> I've seen have had problems with this.I am good friends with the service
>> manager at the local deal and I talk to him all the time.He has seen
>> numerous chevrolet "vortec" motors blow head gaskets,and most all that
>blew
>> the gasket had a cracked or warped head.These problems were directly
>traced
>> to a cooling problem that chevrolet had with some trucks equipped one
>> certain way.End result-motors saw 240*-250*,and they started losing water
>> due to one of the above problems.He said that any truck that has been in
>for
>> service and has been known to run warm or has overheated-they will not
>trade
>> for it.He said it's almost gauranteed to have the head/gasket problems,so
>> they won't deal with them.Ford recently sent a bulletin to dealers about
a
>> revised headgasket design for the "triton" motors,because of the large
>> amount of failures they were having.My friends 2001 Ford F-150 5.4L/auto
>> went in for service,and they "accidentaly" left it running with a fender
>> cover over the grille.The DRB showed 252* coolant temp when they realized
>it
>> and shut it off.The truck has been through 4 headgaskets,2 heads,and on
>> intake manifold and gasket set trying to chase an internal loss of
coolant
>> ever since. I'm just waiting to hear about the first 4.7L with a similar
>> problem.
>>
>> Will Coughlin willcoughlin@hotmail.com
>> '00 reg.cab,2wd,4.7L/hd5-spd/3.92sg(9.25")
>> http://www.geocities.com/willcoughlin/index.html
>>
>> ----Original Message Follows----
>> From: Doug Fedeli <rdf@eznet.net>
>> Reply-To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
>> To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
>> Subject: Re: DML: RE: Re: Re: 4.7 to 3.7 = more problems???
>> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 16:06:32 -0600
>>
>> Will,
>> I have to agree with Jon and Ronald about the coolant temp in your truck.
>It
>> looks like your truck is running properly. If there is a problem with the
>> cooling system that the dealer missed you should let it run and if it
>truly
>> over heats, let the dealer replace the engine under warranty. Don't baby
>it
>> now
>> and end up having to pay for it after the warranty runs out. I realize
you
>> don't like to start the truck if you don't have to. Letting the truck sit
>> and
>> idle just builds up heat faster since the only air moving through the
>> radiator
>> is from the fans. If you have the AC on it just builds more heat. The
>other
>> thing that worries me is letting it idle while pumping gas but that's
>> another
>> problem. I don't think the lubed surfaces in the engine will dry off in
>the
>> time it takes you to pump the gas. Where did you hear about head and head
>> gasket problems?
>>
>> Doug Fedeli
>>
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
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>>
>
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