I talked the guys over at Speedworks in Lewisville...
They can dyno tune my truck, and to adjust the cam, they would have to
charge $~450 the first time they adjust it, and $~350 for each addition time
that they would have to adjust it...
I might just go out there and run 3 passes first, with the A/F sensor hooked
up and see what I'm getting so far... I'll send you guys copies to see what
you think, then make the decision whether or not to redegree the cam...
as for tires, I've got 17x8's on it right now....going to go with 15x6 rims
on the front with some skinny tires...
the slicks that I'm buying from Sam are 275/60R15 BFG Drag Radials
Later,
Tom "Slick"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@BUFFNET.NET
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@BUFFNET.NET]On Behalf Of ABeerCan@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2001 10:42 AM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: Re: DML: Drag Racing - Part II; or What the hell?!?!?
In a message dated 4/7/01 8:55:45 AM Central Daylight Time,
prodog@swbell.net
writes:
<< How much are those Viper converters? I was shifting around 5500 to
5800rpm...
I think I've determined that the cam is degreed too advanced... I need to
find out how much it's going to cost me to get it adjusted.... as I've
don't
have all that much extra money right now...
Any advice?
Thanks,
Tom "Slick" >>
Tom,
I believe the Viper Converters run ~$900, but they are custom made for your
app, once again, I believe. If that cam is advanced too far, then yes, you
will have some problems. I am not sure how much a shop will charge to
adjust
the cam for you. The sift points sound fine to me. Are you short shifting
into 2nd? If not you may want to try that so you can outta first gear so
you
can stop some of the traction loss (shift around 5400 then shift the others
around 5800). By short shifting 1st some would say that you will lose time,
but I have found that by doing this you drop back into your strong tq band
that the magnum motors have, so it will pull itself on through 2nd with no
problem. The slicks will really help off the line. One thing to remember
about the slicks, when you do your birn out, don't let them grab as you
finish it. This will scuff one spot on the slick. That spot will then
loose
traction as you leave the line. With the slicks on your Dak, I would then
launch it around 2200 - 2400 if possible. Also, have you relocated your
battery? Might want to consider that as well. I made up some steel battery
trays that would fit on the frame under the bed of my Dakado. I had to
install kill switches to meet NHRA regs, but it was worth it. Now the
weight
of the betteries is as far back as it can go and it is also even with the
pivot point of the frame, which helps the truck squat even better on take
off. just make sure that when you aren't running, that you disable the kill
switches. Nothing will piss you off quicker than some wiseazz, who knows
what they are for, jumping outta their car at a red light and pullin your
kill switches while you are waiting on the light to change. I nearly shot
someone for doing that! LOL (not really, but I was pissed!!) Oh yeah, one
more REALLY good tip. Clean out your truck before you race! I cleaned mine
out and weighed the trash, I had 42 extra lbs of junk in my truck! Those
empty packs of Marlboros and everything add up pretty quick. What size tire
are you running on the front? I have just ordered a cheap set of steel
wheels that are 15x4" so I can put a skinny up front on mine. If you are
running a large tire up front, that is more drag that you don't need. HTH
Will
"You better hope there is intelligent life out there somewhere,
Cause I think we got cheated down here on Earth!"
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