One more thing, if you are going to run a power cable to your battery, I
chose to drill a hole through the firewall just below the speedometer cable
bracket, not through the bracket but just a tiny bit below it, stay to the
middle to right side of the bracket or you'll hit your inner fender. I
drilled 2 1/2" holes with a titanium bit and chewed through to make one
hole, seal it with silicone and leave the windows and garage open for the
evening cause it STINKS.
Shawn Bowen
Consultant
CCNP, CCDP, MCNE, MCSE+I, CNX
Cell - 678.362.3782
sbowen@neteffectcorp.com
www.neteffectcorp.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@BUFFNET.NET
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@BUFFNET.NET]On Behalf Of Shawn Bowen
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 11:07 AM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: Re: DML: Trim/ wiring question Answer:-)
Here's one I can help with:) On my 98 5.2L 4x4 CC the wiring is as follows:
2 connectors, the wires are split between them, the first one is missing
wires #1 and #4.
Blank - No Wire
White/Black = Left Front Speaker Negative
Gray/Black = Right Front Speaker Negative
Blank - No Wire
Orange/White = Dimmer Control
Red = 12V SWITCHED Power (Could be used as a turn on for amps as well as the
Head Unit)
Yellow = 12 Volts Constant power.
Other Connector
Blue - Power Antenna
Green - Left Rear Speaker Positive
Violet - Right Rear Speaker Positive
White - Left Front Speaker Positive
Gray - Right Front Speaker Positive
Green/Black - Left Rear Speaker Positive
Violet/Black - Right Rear Speaker Positive
There is also your antenna lead in there, and the is a Black wire with a
connector on it all by it self that is a ground for the radio, I cut the
connector off and wired it direct. I would cut into your stock wiring, you
can get a harness kit dirt cheap from Hi-Fi Buys, Circuit Shity, Best Buy's
and any stereo shop, OR Crutchfield:)
The foot seal trim plate are removed by pulling from the CENTER straight up,
the retaining clips will pop out on by one, move your hand down to each one
to prevent cracking the trim, at the end they have a very fragile tab that
goes under the mating trim, if you bow the center these will just slip out.
Depending on what your putting in you may need to take off the rear trim
side panels and the bench seat center panel (the plastic, not the carpet).
The first thing to do is pull out the plastic trim in the center of the rear
cab, it's held in with speed clips, just start at one end and pop them out
by pulling one by one. Then you will see two Phillips head screws on each
side panel, take these out. The sidepieces in the rear have 3 push stays (I
dunno what else to call them, they are plastic retaining clips). Start by
using a T-40 or T-50 Torx and removing the Top Seat Belt bolt, there is a
plastic cover on this bolt that you need to lightly pry up on to get at the
bolt, then remove the big ass bolt. Pull the weather stripping back from
the panel and from the top pull outward until you can tell where the first
speed clip thingy is, get your hand a little closer to it and then pull the
panel until it pops out. There is one lower on the panel toward the front
and then one at the rear of the panel by the rear seat belt slide, after
that the panel should just lift up and out (watch you ceiling), since the
lower front seat belt is still attached pull a little slack and then pull it
out of the truck and I put it under the truck on top of card board or
something to protect it.
I would personally pull the seat out for this as you are going to have to
pull power wire from your battery, RCA cables from your head unit, and a
turn on lead. If they are not power you can easily pull them out as the
drive side has one wire that's an ass sensor and when disconnected won't
remind you to put your seat belt on anymore (I always where it but hate that
damn light).
If you need any other help let me know.
Shawn
98 5.2L 4x4 CC
P.S.
I JUST put in a Kenwood Z828 Head Unit (plays MP3's off a CD and has 4.5V
preouts!), MB Quart components in the doors, Polk DX6's in the Rear, a PPI
PC450 for the highs and an MTX Thunderform self powered box. Still playing
with tuning it, getting the gains set right and what not.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@BUFFNET.NET
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@BUFFNET.NET]On Behalf Of Chris Lang
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 9:11 AM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: Re: DML: Trim/ wiring question
Will what kind of subs are you putting in your truck? I'm still looking for
ideas about putting a stereo in my dak since my old amp, sub and reciever
wont fit in the new one. Can't help you on the first two questions but for
the remote turn on the color is usually a dark blue.
>From: "Will Coughlin" <willcoughlin@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
>To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
>Subject: DML: Trim/ wiring question
>Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 23:57:15 -0500
>
>Ok, I'll be putting a pair of subs in my truck tomorrow and I need to know
>a
>couple of things. #1- how do I remove the trim plates on the sides of the
>carpet running along the door sills? #2- what colors in the factory
>Infinity
>system wiring represent the right front speaker pos+, and neg-? #3-What
>color wire should I be looking for for my remote turn on lead? TIA,
>
>Will Coughlin willcoughlin@hotmail.com
>'00 reg.cab,2wd,4.7L/NV-3500HD5-spd/3.92sg(9.25")
>http://www.geocities.com/willcoughlin/index.html
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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>
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