Hey Aaron,
Thanks for the suggestions. I though of drilling holes, but hesitate due to
it's finality. Can't undo it once it's done, except for filling the holes
with caulk maybe.
I think I'll wait a week or two to see how it holds up, and to see if the
color changes from exposure. I'll then do whatever I need to do.
I told the wife "see, I just saved us $150, so how about if I get a new
chip?".
She laughed and flipped me the bird. Oh well. Anyone got schematics? hehe
I did get new TAZ mud guards though. On order.
Hopefully my DML sticker is in today's mail Yeah! Another 20 HP!
-- Bill '01 QC 4.7, Auto, Flo-Pro exhaust, Downey Tarp, Viper Alarm, RhinoLiner, K&N Glas-Scapes "Stars and Stripes" http://web.tampabay.rr.com/billspages/<Puddlestompa@aol.com> wrote in message news:7e.161605fc.28513e5a@aol.com... > My gutter guard was only $6, anyway. I suggest for the bottom that you drill > small holes in the grey plastic posts, then when you use the tie wraps you > won't go over the front and you won't be able to see them as well. Also a > little matching grey paint couldn't hurt. For my bottom peice I cut small > strips of wood that fit into the hollow posts, then I nailed the gutter guard > to the wood. Unfortunately they didn't stay in to good so I had to do some > fancy work with duct tape, sadly for the first time in my life duct tape > failed me after about 3 weeks, i guess it was no match for rocks and bugs > slamming into screen. I am currently reworking the idea. > If I might add one suggestion: the hole you cut out for the hood latch takes > away from the wonderfull job done elsewhere. What I did was drill a small > hole in the hood realease thing and then attach a small amount of wire that > sticks through the screen with a "T" handle on the end. It is hardly > noticable and works great, opens easier than before. Oh but makes sure you > buy stainless steel wire, mine rusted up quick. > > Aaron > Vancouver, Wa > 98 2WD 2.5L 4cyl RC > http://www.hometown.aol.com/puddlestompa/mydak.html
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