That's what I'm working on right now, I'm backing out the nuts and trying to
reset the lash to 0. Any one know an easier way than to set lash on all of
them till you can't twist the rod anymore, then torque 1/2 turn further,
then bump the starter and do all 16 again. This takes FOREVER! Thanks for
the reply! ;-)
Shawn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@BUFFNET.NET
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@BUFFNET.NET]On Behalf Of HOP
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2001 1:59 PM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: DML: Re: Dead Dak, I screwed up Somehow
Are you sure the valves are closing all the way? you might have the lifters
cranked down too much, someone posted awhile back what the tolerance was..
Hop.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shawn Bowen" <Shawn@bowen.com>
To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2001 11:31 AM
Subject: DML: Dead Dak, I screwed up Somehow
> Ok folks, This is long but I REALLY need some help. I bought and
received
> 7.1 Crower Roller Rockers, MP HP Springs, MP HP Pushrods, MP HP Guide
> plates, and a new set of Silver Mopar valve covers.
>
> Well, all is well. Setup my shop bench with ALL the new parts layed out
and
> very organized, I had all my parts. Prep the car, disconnect the negative
n
> batt terminals. Tied the wiring harnesses and removed the current valve
> covers. I pull the valve cover, marked the Valves that seemed to be
pushed
> down for later reference.
> I removed all old rockers and rods, then used a Craftsman overhead valve
> compressor to remove the others in the following fashion:
> Pull plug for the cylinder of the 2 valve I'm removing and replaceing,
> insert Air 5/8's compressor fitting. Connect to Air, compress old spring
and
> retainers, get retaining clips out of each one then do the other valve for
> that cylinder. I compressed the new mopar springs/retainers and drop them
> on, put in the retaining clips and removed the spring tentioner. Did this
> for all 16 valves, moving the air to which ever cylinder I was working on.
> Next I put a little thread lock on the crower studs, torque them to 26'#'s
> for good measure.
> Now I put the roller rockers on and hand tighten the 9/16's retaining nut,
> turn the engine over (no wires and the coil wire was off. Went back and
> tightend all of them again, reapted this 18-20 times till I was SURE they
> were on there and there was 0 lash.
> Next I installed the Crower retaining screws and tightened them.
> Popped the new Valve covers and gaskets on, put a few bolts in, put all
the
> spark plug wires back on (In order, quadruple checked), made sure all was
> clear, everything was connected properly, including the coil wire, and
> nothing else was in the way. Then.......
> I tried to fire her up. Ran the starter for 5 second intervals and after
3
> tries waited a while to make sure I didn't fry my starter too. The damn
> thing won't start, it turns over, doesn't even rumble like it wants too, I
> can smell a little gas after doing this a while so I know she is getting
> fuel. But I can't get her to run. So, I thought the coil free arching
> earlier might have been the problem, so I switch to a BRAND new MSD SS
Coil
> and have the same results. I sat and check everything over and over but
> can't find anything wrong.
> I know you guys can help get me running again! Any ideas???
> Thanks,
> Shawn 98 5.2L 4x4 CC
>
>
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