Still trucking along. I haven't fired her up today but I'm planning on
going out in a little while and driving about 50 miles to a friends;-)
Shawn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@BUFFNET.NET
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@BUFFNET.NET]On Behalf Of Bernd D. Ratsch
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2001 1:19 AM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: DML: RE: WAS Dead Dak,then Sick Dak;-) "FAQ", Now - IT'S ALIVE &
Thanks!
So how's she running now? :)
(I will be posting the Crower and Mopar adjustment sequences...as per
the manual...but there are alternative ways. Just make sure you always
check, recheck, and recheck again.)
- Bernd
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@buffnet.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@buffnet.net] On Behalf Of Shawn Bowen
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2001 6:31 PM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: DML: WAS Dead Dak,then Sick Dak;-) "FAQ", Now - IT'S ALIVE &
Thanks!
Well,
She's alive again;-). I sort of mixed all the instructions that
I received from everyone. Here is the way that finally worked best for
me.
1) Pop the spark plugs out, take off the valve covers, zip tie the
radiator hose and heater core hose out of the way.
2) Take all the Hex nuts out of the 9/16's lock down nuts, put them all
in a magnetic dish if you have one.
3) Rotate the alternator pulley counterclockwise while facing the
engine, keep going until the Intake valve on cylinder 1 compresses and
then releases and the Exhaust valve compresses and releases, turn the
alternator a bit more but the valves your working on shouldn't move
anymore.
4) Unscrew the 9/16's roller rockers until COMPLETELY loose. Then,
tighten the 9/16's on these two valves until there is no more up and
down movement on the pushrod and you can barely turn the pushrod, using
a 9/16's wrench hold the it in place while you put the locking nut into
place then lock it down making SURE not to tighten the 9/16's anymore.
Do this same thing for the other valve on the cylinder your working on.
5) I chose to keep turning the alternator until cylinder 3 compressed
the intake, then exhaust, then they leveled out and I adjusted them.
You could just go to the next cylinder in the firing order but I wanted
to do the whole drivers side first starting at Cylinder number 1, then I
did 3, 5, and 7. Went to the passenger side and did 2, 4, 6, and 8.
6) With the coil grounded I turned the engine over for 10 seconds,
waited, then turned it over for another 10-15 seconds. Wash, rinse,
repeat.
7) I started at cylinder #1 again by turning the alternator and
rechecked every valve, found a couple that were to tight or to loose and
fixed them.
8) Did step 6 and 7 again until everything was perfect.
9) Buttoned everything up, put the plugs back in, wired it, got rid of
the zip ties, air hat on, and......
10) Fired it up. Tap tap tap, let her go for a minute, shut her off for
a few then fired her up again. After about 4 times the tap's were
completely gone.
Many thanks to everyone for their help on this. I know some of you are
building web sites with this information, I am as well as time permits.
All of your help was invaluable to me. I'm not stupid, I've just never
touched the valve train before, a web site with this info will save
others many a headaches in the future. I ended up tearing the top off
the motor 4 times to get this right.
Thanks everyone,
Shawn
98 5.2L 4x4 CC
Crower 1.7's;-)
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