Bill,
You may want to consider running the wiring directly to the battery rather
than through the fuse box. May be a tight fit to get the additional wire
into the fuse box. Also you would want this circuit to be hot when the
engine is off to use your AC/DC inverter when the car is parked. Install a
resettable 15-Amp fuse near the outlet. If the switch recommends the
14-gauge wire I would then go with that. This single circuit should be more
than adequate for both the cargo light and outlet.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Pruitt [mailto:wpruitt1@tampabay.rr.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 12:08 PM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: DML: AC Adapter
Hey,
Last week there was some discussion about putting a switch in the bed to
turn on the cargo lights.
Well, I went to a local boat shop and purchased both a weatherproof,
lighted, toggle switch and a nice 12V DC outlet, complete with a rubber
snap-on cover.
They will be mounted in the back driver's side of the bed, with the wiring
terminating into the tail light area. Lots of room for the wires, and easy
access to the switch and outlet without them protruding into the bed.
My question is this. What size wiring and fuse should I run from the fuse
panel to run the cargo lights and a DC/AC convertor for a radio or CD player
while at the beach? The switch and outlet are both rated for 20Amps, and
the outlet instructions say to use 14 guage wire.
The switch will only be for the cargo lights, not the outlet, but both will
be fed from the same 12V supply. Or maybe I should run 2 circuits?
Bill Pruitt (Florida)
'01 QC
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 20 2003 - 12:02:04 EDT