I am having no problems with a wire run from the battery with noise. I did with
my old GM but seems ok with the Dakota. The antenna is not the best but I have
used it and it worked ok, just as you said, do not expect much, I am running a
Larsen now with great results. For that antenna, I would say to place the
antenna all the down to the bottem, if it is new, I had to cut some off every
one I had, I think halfway would be worse. The SWR meter is a good investment
for the antenna being a magnet mount and from Radio Shack, good to keep around
and check once a year. I have had that antenna blow off my car before when a
truck drove by. The Wilson Antenna (Little Wil) would be a much better choice
then the RS and easier to get then my Larsen, I had to hunt for a second one.
The Wilson should be able to be found at most truck stops, as I have noticed
here in Canada. I would get my power from the fuse box if the radio is not
modified to transmit more wattage, I am running a bit higher wattage, therefore
am running a new line from the battery. If you have noise, you can try to use a
choke or filter on the line, that fixed up my GM noise problem and I stress
fusing at the battery also, nothing worse then hotting a battery at the firewall
with a heavy gage wire with no fuse, the resulting fire can be deadly, I was
lucky when I did that, I was young (16) at the time and lived to learn a lesson
about fuses. I also wanted my radio on all the time unless shut of at the
radio, not with the key.
Most people get a good radio, but the antenna is important to, should not be
cheap there, and the SWR is important to set. If that is high, the signal is
not getting transmitted but being reflected back to your radio and will burn out
you radio in time, the higher the reflection, the quicker.
If you get a meter, the instructions should be straight forward, I set channel
221 as close to 1:1 as possiable and the rest should be ok. With your RS
antenna, the ratio should be about 1:1.1 or 1.2 on 21 and maybe as high as 1.8 -
1.9 on 1 and 40. The Wilson would get you better results.
Good Luck
ttroidl@bluefrognet.net wrote:
> First, DO NOT RUN A WIRE TO YOUR BATTERY!!!
>
> All that will do is collect electrical interfeerance from the engine
> compartment!!!
>
> Look for a CONSTANT 12v source at you r fuse box, put it on the memory
> wire, then find an accessory terminal on the fuse box and connect the other
> to that one, this will allow the radio to come on with your key, and 3rd,
> connect the ground wire to some solid metal NEAR where you are mounting the
> CB, you do NOT want it to be any longer that it has to be...
>
> As for the antenna, I just looked at what you have, Not much of an
> antenna... damn sure not worth $29! maybe $10, but then thats radio
> shack....
> Don't expect much out of that... For the same money the WILSON ANTENNA
> (Little Wil) is 10 times the antenna!
>
> You probably don't have an SWR meter? you will need to have SOMEONE check
> it, to opperate the transmitter with a out of match antenna can overheat and
> burn out the output transistor in the CB!
> If in doubt, place the whip 1/2 way in, and leave it until you can have it
> properly set! and do not transmit for more than short amounts at a time...
>
> Hope that helps some...
> Any questions just ask!
> --
> Tony.
> DakotaRebel <dakrebelchic@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:9sv0be$qdo$1@bent.twistedbits.net...
> > Thanks for the replies :o)
> >
> > Actually, it's a Radio Shack model (TRC-444) 3 wires (black ground, red
> and
> > orange powered) as it does have the memory feature. (figured it would
> make
> > a decent starting place) The fuses are already inline on the wires. As for
> > the antenna, it's another from RadioShack
> > () - have it already mounted
> > to the roof of my cab right in the middle at the back. I'm a little
> > skeptical at having to run a line from my battery into the cab - seems
> like
> > something I should leave to someone with more than a little experience!
> But
> > gladly the radio has not been modified from the original Radio Shack
> stock,
> > so I'm hoping I won't have to do this at least until I have some more
> > knowledge of my truck's electrical system.
> >
> > The ground wire sounds the easiest to deal with - it's the others I worry
> > about. I'm looking to install the radio so that I do need the key to
> power
> > it - just like my stereo system.
> >
> > Thanks again guys!
> >
> > ~ lora
> > -------------------------------------------------------
> > DakotaRebel
> > DakotaRebel98@yahoo.com AIM: RebelFrst
> > http://www.geocities.com/DakotaRebel98/
> > -------------------------------------------------------
> > Rebel - 1998 Dakota Sport, Deep Amethyst. 2WD, V6 auto
> > Flowmaster Dual Exhaust, Mopar Roll Bar, Bed Rails, Drop In Liner,
> > KC Lights, Kenwood 10 Disc CD Changer & Stereo, Boston
> > Acoustics Speakers
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Car37" <englehart@Sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3BF2D709.1B864EB2@sympatico.ca...
> > > There should only be two, maybe 3 wires if it has a memory. A ground or
> > > negative, should be black, power(12v) should have a fuse in line and
> > should be
> > > red or white, you hook to power, either the accessory line from you fuse
> > box or
> > > always powered if you do not want to have to have the key on when using
> > and
> > > maybe one the is always powered to save your channel setting. The
> ground
> > should
> > > just to to the frame, and some shops also install a fuse on the ground,
> > but you
> > > don't need to. The power and memory line should be plugged into the
> fuse
> > box
> > > with a spade connector and there should be a place for this, if not you
> > will
> > > have to run a new line from the battery. I would avoid splicing into
> the
> > wiring
> > > harness for power and make sure you use a fuse at the battery and inside
> > the cab
> > > for the radio. Insure you do not hook the radio up backwards, there is
> > > protection diode that is suppose to blow the fuse to protect the CB from
> > reverse
> > > current but often you end up blowing something in the radio. What kind
> of
> > radio
> > > is it, if it is a realistic or Cobra, the power wires should be a plug
> and
> > you
> > > should be able to go to Radioshack or other electronic store and get
> > replacement
> > > wires for the radio and they should be able to help you with what wires
> to
> > go
> > > where. If the radio has been modified to transmit high power (wattage),
> > it
> > > would be best to run a new wire from the battery. That is what I did
> for
> > mine,
> > > I soldered a heavy gage wire with 30 amp fuse at the battery into the
> cab
> > and
> > > then attached the CB, cell phone, and extra accessory plugs with there
> > > individual rated fuses to this wire. I do not have any pics scanned in
> > yet.
> > > Email me and let me know what you have and I will see what we can get
> > done.
> > > What kind of antenna do you have with it, the antenna also makes a big
> > > difference with a CB and is often the item that is not thought of, a
> cheap
> > > antenna can cause many problems.
> > >
> > > DakotaRebel wrote:
> > >
> > > > Well, I'll admit... I'm much more mechanically inclined than
> electrical,
> > and
> > > > the thought of messing around with my truck's wiring is enough to give
> > me
> > > > goosebumps... but I've got to learn sometime I 'spose.
> > > >
> > > > Just bought a CB radio online, and sitting here looking at the
> > instructions
> > > > they are rather vague. That combined with an inate fear of cutting
> > wires in
> > > > my cab and going near anything that runs to the battery...well,
> without
> > help
> > > > I'm lost :o) Any one willing to help me out and tell me *really* how
> to
> > > > install this puppy? If anyone has pictures from their installation
> from
> > the
> > > > wiring end, I would be forever grateful :o)
> > > >
> > > > thanks in advance!
> > > > ~ lora
> > > >
> > > > -------------------------------------------------------
> > > > DakotaRebel
> > > > DakotaRebel98@yahoo.com AIM: RebelFrst
> > > > http://www.geocities.com/DakotaRebel98/
> > > > -------------------------------------------------------
> > > > Rebel - 1998 Dakota Sport, Deep Amethyst. 2WD, V6 auto
> > > > Flowmaster Dual Exhaust, Mopar Roll Bar, Bed Rails, Drop In Liner,
> > > > KC Lights, Kenwood 10 Disc CD Changer & Stereo, Boston
> > > > Acoustics Speakers
> > >
> > > --
> > > Shawn Englehart
> > > www.geocities.com/englehrt
> > > http://www.dakota-truck.net/profiles/dakota/Yfz3JVR3VIJnE/profile.htm
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
-- Shawn Englehart www.geocities.com/englehrt http://www.dakota-truck.net/profiles/dakota/Yfz3JVR3VIJnE/profile.htm
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