Although there are exception to every rule, as a general rule ya don't wanna
use synthetic on a high mileage vehicle which has been running 'dino' oil.
It is those 'cleaning agents' that actually cause problems. Overtime, as the
seals and gaskets begin to dry-out, crack and wear, the "sludge" deposits
from the 'dino' oil help to maintain the integrity of the system by "filling
in the gaps" sort-a-speak. If ya turn around and place a cleaning agent in
there, it could and often does clean out that sludge, exposing those gaps
thus leading to leaks, lost compression etc.
The way I see it, if you have a high mileage vehicle which doesn't burn oil,
has good compression, and doesn't leak....why change what you been doing :)?
<Gmblows@aol.com> wrote in message news:a0.1f59f422.29517a6b@aol.com...
> I put synthetic oil in a 300Z, a perfectly running car,
> with less than 60K miles on it. 200 miles later...
> Rear main oil seal lets go...Just as I'm leaving my home state.
> I will not do that again!
>
>
>
> > I totaly disagree with the last comment,that an engine with alot of
miles
> on
> > it shouldnt be changed to synthetic,,,,,well,If a motor,reguardless of
> > mileage,is in good shape...and doesnt burn alot of oil and has good
> > compression. i see no problem with converting to
> > Synthetic oils. they are cleaning agents,it helps clean all of the
sludge
> > out of the engine so the new oil can take its place in lubercating
places
> > once occupied with sludge.
> >
> > In 1997 I bought an 89 Daytona with 86,000 miles on it. shortly there
> after
> >
> > i changed it over to Amsoil 10W30 and did it make a diffrence.granted i
> > replaced the Valve cover gasket after the conversion...it did leak
alittle
> > bit,but it was clean.
> > Now the car has 158,000 miles on it ang it runs quieter than any other
> > 2.5/2.2 litre motor that ive seen or heard, it sounds like a new car.
> > it doesnt leak a bit of oil except at the rear-mail seal...big deal!!!!
> >
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