Re: Re: Front brakes question

From: Russell K. Yee (rkyee02@hotmail.com)
Date: Sat Jun 01 2002 - 11:01:13 EDT


Mark, I just came inside after finishing my rotor swap and brake job. I
used some PB Blaster and used a pry bar between the knuckle and the back of
the rotor. With a little coaxing with the pry bar the rotor slipped off
without a problem. HTH.

                Russ
        2000 Dakota CC 4x4

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Lee" <jerry.429@charter.net>
To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 10:02 AM
Subject: DML: Re: Front brakes question

>
> Mark, you may have to tap it with a hammer. They can stick. Mine did. It
> took several "heavy" taps with a hammer to loosen them. I did replace both
> rotors when I did the brake job. The mechanic that was helping me said
> normally it doesn't take much to loosen them, but..
> Mine did.
>
> Jerry Lee
> 1998 Dakota Regular Cab Deep Amethyst
> 3.9L 5 spd. Tonneau Cover (soft)
> Lund Backdraft Rear Spoiler
>
>
>
> > I'm trying to get the front rotors off my 2000 CC 4X4, so I can get them
> cut
> > (or replaced, depending on how bad they're warped), but I'm not having
> much
> > luck at the moment...
> >
> > The guy down at my parts shop says they're the slip on type (this is a
> REAL
> > parts shop...not Pep boys, and he's rarely wrong about this type of
> thing).
> > Anyways, when I pull the wheel, it kinda looks like they're slip on, but
> the
> > rotor ain't budging. So I pulled the cotter pin and spindle nut, and
> behind
> > that, everything is splined. Obviously, I just put all that back
> together.
> >
> > The bottom line is I can't tell if the rotor is just frozen on the hub,
or
> > if the whole thing is splined and needs to go to the shop.
> >
> > Anyone care to answer this one?
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > Mark Haney
> > 2K SLT+ CC 4X4, 4.7 5sp, 3.92 LSD
> >
>



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