LMAO...sorry DAKSY...had to laugh. I know what everything under the hood is
(major items) just don't know how to work on them! But thanks! Don't get me
wrong...I REALLY appreciate the help that you have given me...I feel that I
should be able to do that no problem...seems simple enough...I've just
always been more of a body man...that's what I'm doing when I get out of the
marines...Thanks again for your help! You have no idea how much it helps!
I really want to learn as much as I can, plus it's so much cheaper to do
these things yourself! I for one love that part of it seeing as how I don't
make much!
What part Upstate are you from? I'm from the Binghamton area myself...in
a small town called Sidney...perhaps you know of it? When I get out in
August we'll have to meet up...possibly at a DML meet?!
Thanks again!
Eric
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAKSY" <rsmith13@nycap.rr.com>
To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 7:38 PM
Subject: DML: Re: Re: Re: Back to brakes
>
> Hey, Eric!
> <snip>where do I put the hose to bleed the brakes and when will I know
that
> they are good to go...I'm
> assuming when nothing but brake fluid comes out and no air
> bubbles...right?<snip>
>
> Well, for starters, you DO have a clue, because - YES - you DO hafta get
the
> air bubbles out ...
> First of all, I'd make sure that the bleeder screw is what's loose. Jack
the
> DAK up & remove the tire. The bleeder screw should have a small cap on it
> which you should be able to remove by prying carefully under one side of
it
> with a flathead screwdriver.
> You'll need to get a measurement on the head of the bleeder so you can get
> the correct size tubing. Clear tubing is preferred for the bleeding
> procedure, cuz ya can see the air bubbles passing thru it. Three feet is a
> good length
> You'll need a small boxwrench to fit on the bleeder screw. If It's loose -
> that's your problem area. If it's not -I don't think I can help ya (from
> Upstate NY!) without seeing it.
> So let's say it's loose....TIGHTEN IT SNUGLY.
> 1. Open the hood & locate the master brake cylinder...it's a small
> semi-transparent plastic reservoir with a black plastic top & a small cap
&
> should be on the driver side firewall. Remove the cap & pour some clean
> brake fluid into the reservoir to fill it. DO NOT SPILL ANY BRAKE FLUID ON
> PAINTED SURFACES! (or they won't have much paint left on em for long!)
> 2. Put the boxwrench on the bleeder screw & push the tubing over the head
> of the bleeder.
> 3. Pour some clean brake fluid into a clear container, preferably a small
> glass jar - baby food size works ok. & set the jar under the DAK &
submerge
> the other end of the tubing into the bottom of the jar. MAKE SURE THE
TUBING
> STAYS SUBMERGED!
> 4. Have your helper pump the brake pedal to see if pressure builds.
> 5. IF THE PRESSURE BUILDS (i.e. there's some resistance to his foot) have
> him pump a couple of times until the resistance stops building, & then
KEEP
> HIS (HER) FOOT ON THE BRAKE PEDAL AT ALL TIMES !
> 6. Open the bleeder screw very slowly (& not very far!). His foot should
> drop to the floor & air bubbles should pass thru the tubing & into the
glass
> jar.
> 7. Tighten the bleeder screw & look at the master cylinder & make sure
> there's fluid in it - if not - add some. DO NOT LET IT EMPTY COMPLETELY!
> 8. Repeat steps #4 - #7 until no air passes thru the tubing.
> If there aren't any other leaks, you should be all set!
> HTH!
>
> Bob Smith (Daksy2K on AIM)
> 2K DAKSY CC Sport +
> 3.9l; V6: 4X4
> (1 of 980 2K DAKSYs mfrd)
> For the mods,details, etc., visit us at:
>
> http://home.nycap.rr.com/daksy/
>
> (ps, we're still working on it...
> Susan on the page; me on the DAKSY! )
>
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