I did call my local dealer. I purchased my 98 Rc Dakota from them. They said
the Wheel bearings were $175.00 per side. They are sealed.
Jerry Lee
1998 Dakota Regular Cab Deep Amethyst
3.9L 5 spd. Tonneau Cover (soft)
Lund Backdraft Rear Spoiler
----- Original Message -----
From: <Tubamirbls@aol.com>
To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: DML: Inspect front wheel bearings
>
> You raise the question regarding whether or not your truck has "sealed"
> [front wheel bearings] or not: I wasn't aware that any Dakota had such
> however there may well be. My 2k factory manual describes a disassembly
and
> installation procedure for both 2 and 4wh dr models so I assume there were
no
> seald bearings on the 2000 models at least. If you have a truck older
than
> 2000 it is safe to assume you do not have sealed bearings. Best bet is to
> phone your dealer's service dept and enquire.
>
> Having access to compressed air to do a proper bearing service job is only
> one part of the task. The clincher from my experience is to also have
access
> to a proper bearing greasing tool, the device for forcing the fresh grease
> into the inside race of both bearings to ensure each roller is fully and
> properly lubricated for the ensuing 25k mi. I have an air compressor but
I
> don't have the lubricating tool. What I've done in the past is, after
> cleaning and blowing dry the bearings, to take them to the nearest garage
or
> full service gas station that has one and pay a couple of bucks (sometimes
> they don't want any $'s) to have them squeeze in the new grease.
Obviously
> you must walk, ride a bike or have access to another vehicle in order to
do
> this! Also, it's important you keep the left and right bearing set
separate
> to reinstall as they came off, so if you do this, wrap one set in a rag
and
> the other in paper towels or some similar system for ensuring you don't
mix
> them.
>
> You need a can of bearing grease so upon installation you can apply a thin
> coat of grease to the inside circumference of the hub. Moisture tends to
> accumulate inside the hub and since it's cast iron, rust will develop
quickly
> if this surface does not have a thin grease coat. Same for the
spindle,-----
> thin coat. And before replacing each bearing, add a thin wrapping coat
> around the outside [of the bearing surface]. Never apply gobs of grease
> anywhere in this service procedure as it has nothing to do with good
> lubrication, puts a "strain" of sorts on the inside seal, and in hot
weather
> driving is likely to bleed out either or both sides and create a real
mess.
> In the old drum brakes on front wheel days, the risk of over lubrication
> would usually result in the mess getting onto and quickly ruining the
front
> shoes.
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