Go to any CarQuest, and order the replacement BEARING, cost is only like $30
and have any machine shop press them in for you...
I've replaced 2 that way now, and holding up longer than the OEM hub assm.
did!
Just get the Timkin # off the old bearing...
Not hard to change at all!
Tony.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Lee <jerry.429@charter.net>
To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 11:36 AM
Subject: Re: DML: Inspect front wheel bearings
>
> I did call my local dealer. I purchased my 98 Rc Dakota from them. They
said
> the Wheel bearings were $175.00 per side. They are sealed.
> Jerry Lee
> 1998 Dakota Regular Cab Deep Amethyst
> 3.9L 5 spd. Tonneau Cover (soft)
> Lund Backdraft Rear Spoiler
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Tubamirbls@aol.com>
> To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 10:26 AM
> Subject: Re: DML: Inspect front wheel bearings
>
>
> >
> > You raise the question regarding whether or not your truck has "sealed"
> > [front wheel bearings] or not: I wasn't aware that any Dakota had such
> > however there may well be. My 2k factory manual describes a disassembly
> and
> > installation procedure for both 2 and 4wh dr models so I assume there
were
> no
> > seald bearings on the 2000 models at least. If you have a truck older
> than
> > 2000 it is safe to assume you do not have sealed bearings. Best bet is
to
> > phone your dealer's service dept and enquire.
> >
> > Having access to compressed air to do a proper bearing service job is
only
> > one part of the task. The clincher from my experience is to also have
> access
> > to a proper bearing greasing tool, the device for forcing the fresh
grease
> > into the inside race of both bearings to ensure each roller is fully and
> > properly lubricated for the ensuing 25k mi. I have an air compressor
but
> I
> > don't have the lubricating tool. What I've done in the past is, after
> > cleaning and blowing dry the bearings, to take them to the nearest
garage
> or
> > full service gas station that has one and pay a couple of bucks
(sometimes
> > they don't want any $'s) to have them squeeze in the new grease.
> Obviously
> > you must walk, ride a bike or have access to another vehicle in order to
> do
> > this! Also, it's important you keep the left and right bearing set
> separate
> > to reinstall as they came off, so if you do this, wrap one set in a rag
> and
> > the other in paper towels or some similar system for ensuring you don't
> mix
> > them.
> >
> > You need a can of bearing grease so upon installation you can apply a
thin
> > coat of grease to the inside circumference of the hub. Moisture tends
to
> > accumulate inside the hub and since it's cast iron, rust will develop
> quickly
> > if this surface does not have a thin grease coat. Same for the
> spindle,-----
> > thin coat. And before replacing each bearing, add a thin wrapping coat
> > around the outside [of the bearing surface]. Never apply gobs of grease
> > anywhere in this service procedure as it has nothing to do with good
> > lubrication, puts a "strain" of sorts on the inside seal, and in hot
> weather
> > driving is likely to bleed out either or both sides and create a real
> mess.
> > In the old drum brakes on front wheel days, the risk of over lubrication
> > would usually result in the mess getting onto and quickly ruining the
> front
> > shoes.
>
>
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