Ron,
Fairly certain. The dealer paid for his mechanic (same one my dad has) to
change it, but I had the truck for two days before he could "squeeze it in."
It sounded a _lot_ worse then, than it does now.
I think the reason my dad still does business with the guy is he used to
work with him.. trust me, if it was just me, I wouldn't give it a second
thought, I'd do it all myself. I hate having others work on my truck.
-- Later, Jon jonsdak@midmaine.com http://jonsdakota.tripod.com 1996 Dodge Dakota Sport 4X4, 3.9L V6, 42RE, 3.92:1 8.75 axle, "BackRack" Headache Rack, Dodge Motorsports decals, steering wheel cover, and front license plate, diamond-plate bedrail covers, Lund VentVisors, Lund BugShield, Jensen MP-3310 CD/MP3 Receiver ""Ronald Wong"" <ron-wong@cox.net> wrote in message news:NDBBIHDGKKJOIJDEOCBMEELFFNAA.ron-wong@cox.net... > > I may not have all the answers you're looking for but hope it helps. > > Based on your comments about your mechanic, I don't understand why you or > your Dad is still doing business with him. That being said, let's explore > the mechanical side of it. > > 1) On the TC how certain are you that it was replaced. You did it or did > the seller tell you he did it? Anyway it doesn't sound like a TC issue, > although...see #2. > > 2) Since you do a lot of hill climbing you should do something about some or > all of the following: > > a) change fluid and filter regularly or get it flushed regularly preferably > the latter. > b) adjust the bands and check the clutch. > c) use synthetic fluid because it runs cooler and it's more slippery; make > sure you use ATF 3 type 7176 compatible fluid. > d) use a transmission cooler. > e) install a transmission temperature gauge. > f) ideal situation is to customize your torque converter and valve body. > > > Ron > 00 PB SLT QC 4X2 5.9 46RE 3.92 LSD > For modifications see my DML Profile (URL follows) > http://www.twistedbits.net/WWWProfile/dakota/Kw9pV1EkFeOYY > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net > [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net]On Behalf Of Jon > Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 5:19 PM > To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net > Subject: DML: 42RE tranny trouble? > > > > Hey all, > I'm wondering if my truck is about to die. > I've had a slight ticking at idle since I've had the truck, sounds almost > like lifter noise, but it's there all the time, not just at startup in the > morning. > I would think timing chain, if a) it hadn't been replaced when I bought the > truck, and b) it had been getting worse. The noise has always been there, > and has not changed a whit, whether in noise or severity. Now, a friend, > (who also happens to manage an auto parts store - one of the precious few > parts guys I trust) says it may be my TC, but not to worry too much about it > unless the noise gets worse, but that changing the ATF is a very good idea, > if I find chunks of metal, I can start worrying. Now, I've been wanting to > change the tranny fluid since I got the truck, but my dad thinks it'd be too > messy to do in the yard, and his mechanic wants to rape me ($150!) to do it. > Now, here's the thing: I live partway up a mountain, lots of hills and > curves, and my truck likes to go into OD when I let off the gas to make it > around some of these corners, or as I come to the crest of one of these > hills, but when I start up a hill, it'll downshift twice, OD-3rd, then > 3rd-2nd, and tach about 3, 3.3k at 35-40mph. Now, I've started locking out > overdrive once I come onto these roads, which helped a lot, but now, if I > let the truck slow to around 30mph, the tranny likes to shift into 1st! 5.5k > RPM! > I'm on the verge of letting the mechanic pillage and plunder me, just for > peace of mind - or to know the bad news. There's two things that stop me: > 1) I need my truck for work, and the guy always has our vehicles for 2-3x > the time he estimates, (if he says 2 days, it's a week, four days, it's two > weeks, a week, it won't be in the yard for three weeks), and Dad's Stratus > is broken down, so he's using the Voyager, meaning that if my truck goes > into the shop, I have zero transportation, and > 2) the guy tends to say more work is necessary than really is. Dad's > Stratus blew a rear main seal, (see reason #1), and the guy is going to > charge him $650 to change it because, and I quote, "the entire clutch > assembly also needs replacement because it is directly behind the rear main > seal, and in the path of oil spray, so it's _probably_ been oil > contaminated" > Now, in my experience, a clutch that's been oil-contaminated does one of two > things. It either slips horribly or is really grabby. Dad's clutch is > neither. I had to move the car last week to mow the lawn, and the clutch > behaves like the car is new. The friction point is in the same spot, the > car pulls the same from there out.. > I'm going off on a tangent, but I'd like some ideas. I really can't afford > to be truckless, or to have to pay big bucks to get it fixed at the moment. > Thanks. > > > -- > Later, > Jon > jonsdak@midmaine.com > http://jonsdakota.tripod.com > 1996 Dodge Dakota Sport 4X4, 3.9L V6, 42RE, 3.92:1 8.75 axle, "BackRack" > Headache Rack, Dodge Motorsports decals, steering wheel cover, and front > license plate, diamond-plate bedrail covers, Lund VentVisors, Lund > BugShield, Jensen MP-3310 CD/MP3 Receiver > >
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