Bernd,
My filter is at a downward angle, so the air is being directed at the base.
Plus I think having a little 2" filter on the tip wouldnt do much either.
I think i'll just cut the hole in my hood and get a k&n air hat. The scoop
should take care of this delema!
P.S. Did you get my email?
Gary Hedlin
"The Crazy Quadraplegic"
ghedlin@theramp.net (business)
ragingquad@yahoo.com (personal)
**Also Webmaster For**
http://garyhedlin.com
http://socaldakota.com
http://scsilverdak.com
http://assistivetechnologies.com
...And Many More!
""Bernd D. Ratsch"" <bernd@texas.net> wrote in message
news:000001c2467e$416f1de0$090aa8c0@homenet.com...
>
> Gary...cone filters, such as the K&N, S&B, or Holley cones, pull the air
> in from the base...not the tip. (The "Velocity Stack" style open tip
> conical filters do work...but still pull a majority of the air in from
> the base.)
>
> On the air bending...it really doesn't matter where it's coming from
> (outside air), it's how it's routed into the intake and then into the
> engine.
>
> - Bernd
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net] On Behalf Of Gary Hedlin
> Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2002 11:03 PM
> To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
> Subject: DML: Re: Was New Guy, Now FIPK
>
>
>
> See, thats kinda where I'm coming from. The FPIK's main feature is the
> heat sheild. Yes, It does guard agianst the direct heat from the
> engine. However, you still have one large chunk of steel heating the
> surrounding metal parts. All of these hot parts heat up the air BIG
> TIME.
>
> Just look at a radiator in an older house. The radiators heat the rooms
> beautifully. The fact that the boilers are not too efficent is why
> they're not used too much in new house.
>
> Annyway, The FPIK still uses the stock air inflow setup, going through
> the passenger fender. Keep in mind the fender is metal, being heated by
> the heat from the engine. So, the air is already hot BEFORE it enters
> the FPIK. So what use is the heat sheild?
>
> On my homebrew setup, I have the cone filter right by the 2 AC lines by
> the radiatior. I did this for 2 reasons... 1. by being so close to the
> front grill, I'm getting the air before it has a chance to be heated by
> the engine. 2. By being by the front grill, the air is rammed into the
> intake more than a FPIK would be. Remember, the cone filter is by the
> wheel well on a FPIK setup. Plus I don't have a heat sheild blocking
> air coming
> straight in. Any time you route air through bends, the air looses
> velocity.
>
> So, I'm not waisting the $250 on a FPIK!
>
>
> Gary Hedlin
> "The Crazy Quadraplegic"
> ghedlin@theramp.net (business)
> ragingquad@yahoo.com (personal)
> **Also Webmaster For**
> http://garyhedlin.com
> http://socaldakota.com
> http://scsilverdak.com
> http://assistivetechnologies.com
> ...And Many More!
>
> ""Ronald Wong"" <ron-wong@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:NDBBIHDGKKJOIJDEOCBMKELLFOAA.ron-wong@cox.net...
> >
> > The FIPK doesn't allow that much more air in, but with the heat
> > shield, it will let cooler air in. As for the rubber flap it doesn't
> > hurt to take
> that
> > out anyway to let more (and cooler) air into the engine compartment.
> > By
> the
> > way, that will also help the FIPK since the filter does end up not too
>
> > far away from there. As for ram air, that isn't going to be effective
>
> > 'til you're up beyond 120 mph.
> >
> > Ultimately though, what I would like to do is ram 45ºF air in. I
> > would
> like
> > to have bigger valves like on R/T heads, a ported manifold, and bigger
> cam.
> > Of course, that will require other parts to be changed and/or
> > blueprinted, balanced, etc. ...and last, but not least, the moolah to
> > pay for all that.
> >
> > Ron
> > 00 PB SLT QC 4X2 5.9 46RE 3.92 LSD
> > For modifications see my DML Profile (URL follows)
> > http://www.twistedbits.net/WWWProfile/dakota/Kw9pV1EkFeOYY
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> > [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net]On Behalf Of Gary Hedlin
> > Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2002 8:40 PM
> > To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
> > Subject: DML: Re: RE: Re: Howdy from the New Guy
> >
> >
> >
> > The thing I am not convinced about the FPIK is the engine is only
> > going to allow so much air into the manifold. Unless youre running a
> > supercharger, or have a ram-air setup, it sound pointless to spend the
>
> > $$ on a system
> that
> > still uses the "through the fender" intake system. At least with a
> > homebrew, you can take out that rubber flap by the radiator and point
> > the filter twords that.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Gary Hedlin
> > "The Crazy Quadraplegic"
> > ghedlin@theramp.net (business)
> > ragingquad@yahoo.com (personal)
> > **Also Webmaster For**
> > http://garyhedlin.com
> > http://socaldakota.com
> > http://scsilverdak.com
> > http://assistivetechnologies.com
> > ...And Many More!
> >
> > ""Ronald Wong"" <ron-wong@cox.net> wrote in message
> > news:NDBBIHDGKKJOIJDEOCBMIELKFOAA.ron-wong@cox.net...
> > >
> > > While I agree with Gary on the F&B TB (it works great) I disagree
> > > with
> him
> > > on the FIPK. I had tried several different intake setups and I find
> that
> > > the FIPK is better all the way around. I notice more power out if
> > > it (though I have no dyno sheets to prove it). I think the major
> > > factors
> > were
> > > the one piece airhat to filter setup, and the heat shield. I can't
> > > tell
> > you
> > > much about high-flow cats as I've never had one. I don't see a lot
> > > of resistance there...yet. I am a believer of cat-back setups. I
> > > have a
> > Borla
> > > (rather expensive) and I love the sound and it freed up the back
> pressure
> > > just enough. That coupled with the Mopar headers makes a tremendous
>
> > > difference. You can get all of this from Speedtweaks as Gary
> > > mentioned,
> > or
> > > a number of other dealers. The headers are also available form the
> > > manufacturer, Mike Leach & Co. and the TB is available from Bruce
> Bridges,
> > > the manufacturer. Chip reflashes, if available, can also be gotten
> > through
> > > Mike Leach, associate of Ron Zimmer, a Mopar PCM programmer. Other
> things
> > I
> > > have done is a Line-X bedliner and a Snug Top tonneau cover for the
> back.
> > > You can read more in my DML profile. See the link following the
> > signature.
> > >
> > > Ron
> > > 00 PB SLT QC 4X2 5.9 46RE 3.92 LSD
> > > For modifications see my DML Profile (URL follows)
> > > http://www.twistedbits.net/WWWProfile/dakota/Kw9pV1EkFeOYY
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> > > [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net]On Behalf Of Gary Hedlin
> > > Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2002 7:58 PM
> > > To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
> > > Subject: DML: Re: Howdy from the New Guy
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Welcome Jim! Its always a pleasure to see new members! It sounds
> > > like
> > you
> > > have an ambitious mods plan! My advice is to don't mess with the
> > > K&N
> > FPIK,
> > > you can make one yourself for about $50. Heres the plans:
> > > http://gibsdakota.com/hb_intake.htm
> > >
> > > See, you're already reaping the rewards of being a DML member!
> > >
> > > As far as the throttle body, you might want to check out
> > www.socaldakota.com
> > > He has some good prices on F&B throttle bodies. He also has your
> headers!
> > > As far as a cat-back system, I would put the money into a high flow
> > > cat
> > and
> > > a flowmaster 50 or 70 series muffler. You'll gain nothing from a
> > > dual setup.
> > >
> > > Another good site to visit is www.speedtweaks.net He has a lot of
> stuff,
> > > and Bernd is the Einstein of the Dakota world! He's our resident
> "advice
> > > guy", a hell of a nice guy too!
> > >
> > > Well, hope you enjoy being a member of the DML, and I'm sure you'll
> > > gain
> a
> > > lot of info, even from a crazy SOB like me!
> > >
> > >
> > > Gary Hedlin
> > > "The Crazy Quadriplegic"
> > > ghedlin@theramp.net (business)
> > > ragingquad@yahoo.com (personal)
> > > **Also Webmaster For**
> > > http://garyhedlin.com
> > > http://socaldakota.com
> > > http://scsilverdak.com
> > > http://assistivetechnologies.com
> > > ...And Many More!
> > >
> > > "Jim Wells" <roadtrash52@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > > news:20020818012301.58504.qmail@web13501.mail.yahoo.com...
> > > >
> > > > Hi, all......this is a combination of test-post (to
> > > > see if I actually got it right) and a big ol' "howdy"
> > > > to my fellow Dak'ers......mine is an '01 SLT+, 4.7, Multi-Speed
> > > > auto, and just about everything but the kitchen sink and the
> > > > Port-O-Let in the bed. Plans are for a K&N Gen II FIPK, JBA
> > > > headers, Gibson cat-back, Thunderform 10" powered subs, an
> > > > additional set of the Infinity tweeters in the upper rear corners,
>
> > > > an active crossover, midrange and tweeter amps, a BUNCH of
> > > > DynaMat for deadening the truck's natural resonances,
> > > > and maybe a chip reflash and a cleaned-up throttle
> > > > body. If any of you guys have done any of this stuff,
> > > > I'd really appreciate hearing about it. BTW, an
> > > > engineer friend of mine and I are trying to put to
> > > > gether a design for rear discs on the Gen III trucks
> > > > that will use the existing drums for parking brakes,
> > > > but put some SERIOUS ooomph into the stopping power at
> > > > the rear. Stay tuned......Jim
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > __________________________________________________
> > > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > > HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs http://www.hotjobs.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
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