RE: 8 3/4 Rear End

From: Ray (bpracing@worldnet.att.net)
Date: Mon Sep 02 2002 - 11:08:17 EDT


> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net]On Behalf Of B1LLYW@aol.com
> Subject: DML: 8 3/4 Rear End
>
<snip> I have heard that 8 3/4
> rear end swaps are pretty easy into a Gen II. Some people say
> look for an
> a-body rear, others a b-body rear, still others an e-body rear.
>
> Has anyone out in DML land actually done this? If so, where did
> you get the
> 8 3/4 out of and what was involved in making the swap?
> Bill White

Done that almost 2 years ago! The a-body is a direct bolt-in. You just
need to have the shock mounts added and use Moser axles made for the 2 1/2"
wide brake shoes. (the stock a-body brakes were only 1 3/4 wide and the axle
flange is spaced wrong for bigger brakes.) If you had the 10" drums your
backing plates will work fine. You can use the drums from most any car that
had the 10" drums and 5 on 4 1/2 bolt pattern (e.g. '74 Challenger).

I know that b-body rears will fit but you'll have to relocate the spring
perches and still add shock mounts. The Mopar Chassis book will give
dimensions and perch spacing of all housings.

Wheel back-spacing will vary depending upon which rear you use. Any 8 3/4
housing can be cut to fit and B, C, and E body axles can be shortened to
fit. Moser can do that as well or sell you new ones.

You could have the axles drilled for the stock 6 lug pattern and if you have
a longer housing cut down to the stock dimensions you could keep the current
wheel back-spacing and drums.

I used the "green", non-adjustable axle bearings.

You can get the complete center section with your choice of gears and posi
already set up from Randy's Ring & Pinion. I found that cheaper than
having it done locally.

The drive shaft should be shortened about an inch but it will work as-is.

HTH.
Ray
http://www.dragtruk.com/ENTRIES/20KM1FD2KWBP.html



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