I agree... Being an ACVW guy, breaking in the cam is the most important
thing that is done. It ensures that the lifter "matches" the cam face.
Remember too, that the lifter is actually turning it it's bore while moving
up and down. That is why the break-in is sooo important.
Roller lifters don't rotate in their bore (Well, they SHOULDN'T) so there
isn't much of a break-in.
2270cc T4 motor, .500" lift, 284/300 duration. Dual valve springs. Solid
lifters
Later,
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net]On Behalf Of srp@cox.net
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2002 9:33 PM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: Re: DML: RE: RE: RE: Cam swap break in?
OH okay... Bernd must be right.
Crower must be wrong.
When I walk into Crower tomorrow and sit down with David Crower to discuss
cam profiles, I'll let him know that he is wrong in telling ME there's not a
regimental break-in for my roller cam, only to just install it-- and drive
the truck normally (and of course making sure everything is A-OK before I
romp the living piss out it like I do).
Just like adding new roller lifters, or roller rockers...a roller cam is no
different (general common sense is to take it easy, let things seat-- 50
miles or so, varied driving, no WOT max rpm runs).
The procedure you listed is for a hydraulic or solid lifter cam. Plain and
simple-- I did this last year, 2000 rpm for 20 minutes on my 383-- with a
Crower hydraulic cam, non-roller.
Sam
>
> From: "Bernd D. Ratsch" <bernd@texas.net>
> Date: 2002/10/21 Mon PM 09:04:10 EDT
> To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> Subject: DML: RE: RE: RE: Cam swap break in?
>
>
> There IS a break in period for ANY camshaft Sam.
>
> Even Crane, CompCams, Elgin, and Crower will tell you this.
>
> "IMPORTANT! Don't allow the engine to run
> at less than 1500 RPM during the first halfhour
> of operation. Slow engine speeds invite
> premature cam and lifter wear and may
> cause their ultimate failure. Change RPM
> frequently to direct oil splash to different
> areas of the camshaft. Vehicle may also
> be driven during break-in period."
>
> Even with used rollers, you still need to "break in" the camshaft.
> Remember, they're coated with a special lube for initial break in.
>
> - Bernd
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
> [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Sam
> Sent: Monday, October 21, 2002 10:12 AM
> To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> Subject: DML: RE: RE: Cam swap break in?
>
>
>
> There's really not a break in for a roller cam-- that procedure is for a
> hydraulic cam (non roller)... But it wouldn't hurt.
>
> Sam
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
> [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Wisotzkey,
> Rich
> Sent: Monday, October 21, 2002 8:02 AM
> To: 'dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net'
> Subject: DML: RE: Cam swap break in?
>
>
> Hi Bob,
> Once you get it cranked up, run the rpm around 1800rpm for a good 20
> minutes. I ran mine between 25-30 minutes on both cam break-ins. After
> that, you should be good to go, but I did treat my semi-gently for a few
> road miles until I felt comfortable with it. Have FUN!!! Rich - Ashburn,
> VA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Tom [mailto:tigers@bserv.com]
> Sent: Monday, October 21, 2002 10:04 AM
> To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> Subject: DML: Cam swap break in?
>
>
>
> Hi to all you cam swappers,
>
> I'd like to know what method you used to break in a roller cam after the
> install? Also, what, if any, precautions you took when driving after
> the break in? I thank you for any real-life inputs.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
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