thats why I love my gen 2 =P 3620 with me and a 1/2 tank of gas, thats
before any of the weight reduction I did
Greg Conner
1996 RC
3.9 hybrid
>From: Wayne <blowndakota@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
>To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
>Subject: Re: DML: A question of curriosity
>Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 20:52:31 -0800 (PST)
>
>
>Gary,
>
>Weight reduction is about the best modification you
>can make. In general, if you add more HP, it will
>only make the truck accelerate faster. But if you
>make it lighter, you improve acceleration, braking,
>handling and MPG. The rule of thumb of each 100
>pounds giving you a tenth (it also equals about 10 HP
>and 1 MPH) is pretty much right on for vehicles
>weighing between 3000 and 4000 pounds. Over 4000
>pounds, removing 100 pounds will get you less then a
>tenth, under 3000 will actually net you more. As
>mentioned in other posts, lighter wheels are an easy
>(but sometimes expensive) way to do this, but wheels
>are also rotational weight and are good for a larger
>reduction in ET. The general rule of thumb for
>rotational weight is that for each pound removed that
>spins at crankshaft speed is the same as removing 10
>pounds from elsewhere on the vehicle. Where as each
>pound removed that spins at wheel speed is worth four
>pounds. Wheels are also considered unsprung weight
>and removing unsprung weight also improves handling,
>braking and acceleration more than just shedding
>pounds elsewhere. Good luck with getting the weight
>down, please let us know if you find other areas to
>remove some pounds. BTW, my 98 regular cab, 5.2,
>speed is 4020 with 1/2 tank and me (190 lbs) in it. I
>have a fiberglass roll pan and no spare, I would love
>to see 3800 pounds!
>
>--- Gary Hedlin <ghedlin@theramp.net> wrote:
> >
> > Well, I was told the general rule is for every
> > 100lbs you can drop, will
> > drop a tenth off your ET. My personal best is a
> > 17.6 as is (17.3 with RT
> > rims). I was planning on removing the hard tonneau,
> > spare tire, tailgate,
> > and replace the stock rear bumper with a roll pan.
> > I was also considering
> > yanking the passenger seat and subs. I'm estimating
> > that should shave
> > 200-300 lbs. I guess i'm looking for some solid
> > numbers to base my
> > predictions.
> >
> > Gary Hedlin
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > in article aujbgk$jqb$1@bent.twistedbits.net, andy
> > levy at
> > andylevy@yahoo.com wrote on 12/27/02 11:06 PM:
> >
> > >
> > > You're in for a battle to shave off 600 pounds.
> > As I recall, the front
> > > bumper assembly is light enough that one person
> > can throw it around
> > > pretty easily. Rear bumper would be lighter
> > (since it's smaller).
> > > Losing the tailgate will get you another 75 pounds
> > I'd guess (haven't
> > > lifted one myself aside from opening/closing it -
> > plenty of people
> > > install/remove them singlehandedly). Lose the
> > spare, run with 1/4 tank
> > > of gas, there's lots of little things you can do
> > but 600 pounds is a
> > > <b>lot</b> to drop.
> > >
> > > I know Bob Tom has done some pretty drastic weight
> > saving attempts
> > > (draining the washer fluid resevior), hopefully
> > he's got some tricks up
> > > his sleeve.
> > >
> > > Gary Hedlin wrote:
> > >> I'm trying to shave off a few pounds off my truck
> > for next race season, and
> > >> I was wondering how much a stock bumper, and
> > tailgate weighs. Right now the
> > >> truck weighs in at 3800 lbs without driver, with
> > my tonneau on, and an 1/2
> > >> full tank. I'm shooting for a weigh in weight of
> > 3200 lbs. Anyone have any
> > >> ideas of how to do this?
> > >>
> > >> Gary Hedlin
> > >
> >
>
>
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