Good idea Josh. I am not ASE, but one thing I do is open the bleeder valve
on the caliper slightly, put a small hose on it, and then drain it into a
jar as I push the piston back in. That prevents the worn fluid from being
forced back into the master cylinder. Once the piston is back in, I go
ahead and bleed new fluid through the lines at that point. With the bleeder
slightly cracked open, it makes the piston easier to push back in too.
Rascal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Josh Battles
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 10:29 AM
To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
Subject: DML: Re: RE: Re: Re: How to put new rowders and break pads on my
weels.
That's what an ASE in brakes gets you.... You can also use a smaller
C-clamp with that method as well. Personally I just jam a flat blade
screwdriver between the outside pad and the rotor and pull it most of the
way (if not all) before I remove the caliper. Remember, don't let the
calipers hang by the brake lines for too long it could cause problems later.
I bent up an old coathanger that I hook onto the wheel well to hang the
caliper from. Works great and the best part is that it's FREE.
-- -Josh 2000 Dakota CC 3.9L""Rick Barnes"" <barnesrv@attbi.com> wrote in message news:002401c2c225$4d5a3090$0200a8c0@sys15... > > Josh, great advice about leaving the old pad on. > Rascal > > Subject: DML: Re: Re: How to put new rowders and break pads on my weels. > > Other than that, the only "special tool" is a BIG C-clamp ( 7-8") to > > compress the piston in the caliper. > > Just remember to get that piston in there straight. I find it's easiest to > do when you leave that one pad on.
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