I never tried that with the bleeder screw before, I always thought that
there was too much porential for getting air in the system. A good gravity
bleed after you're done is always a good idea to get that old fluid out of
the calipers and wheel cylinders so you can stop good again. I actually do
a FULL gravity bleed once a year wether I've done brakes or not, it helps me
keep stopping in time.
-- -Josh 2000 Dakota CC 3.9L""Rick Barnes"" <barnesrv@attbi.com> wrote in message news:002c01c2c22d$d80a8480$0200a8c0@sys15... > > Good idea Josh. I am not ASE, but one thing I do is open the bleeder valve > on the caliper slightly, put a small hose on it, and then drain it into a > jar as I push the piston back in. That prevents the worn fluid from being > forced back into the master cylinder. Once the piston is back in, I go > ahead and bleed new fluid through the lines at that point. With the bleeder > slightly cracked open, it makes the piston easier to push back in too. > Rascal > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net > [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Josh Battles > Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 10:29 AM > To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net > Subject: DML: Re: RE: Re: Re: How to put new rowders and break pads on my > weels. > > > That's what an ASE in brakes gets you.... You can also use a smaller > C-clamp with that method as well. Personally I just jam a flat blade > screwdriver between the outside pad and the rotor and pull it most of the > way (if not all) before I remove the caliper. Remember, don't let the > calipers hang by the brake lines for too long it could cause problems later. > I bent up an old coathanger that I hook onto the wheel well to hang the > caliper from. Works great and the best part is that it's FREE. > > -- > -Josh > 2000 Dakota CC 3.9L > > > ""Rick Barnes"" <barnesrv@attbi.com> wrote in message > news:002401c2c225$4d5a3090$0200a8c0@sys15... > > > > Josh, great advice about leaving the old pad on. > > Rascal > > > > Subject: DML: Re: Re: How to put new rowders and break pads on my weels. > > > Other than that, the only "special tool" is a BIG C-clamp ( 7-8") to > > > compress the piston in the caliper. > > > > Just remember to get that piston in there straight. I find it's easiest > to > > do when you leave that one pad on. > >
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