Oh sure, you are right, they will need to be thoroughly bled after this, air
will definitely get in, but it does make the piston easier to push in and
prevents junk from being pushed back into your master cylinder. Always a
good idea to bleed your system annually too. I always do all the wheels,
(furthest from the master first), when I do any brake work. Though I don't
likely get it done annually, I do it at least whenever I work on my brakes.
Rascal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Josh Battles
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 11:04 AM
To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
Subject: DML: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: Re: How to put new rowders and break pads
on my weels.
I never tried that with the bleeder screw before, I always thought that
there was too much porential for getting air in the system. A good gravity
bleed after you're done is always a good idea to get that old fluid out of
the calipers and wheel cylinders so you can stop good again. I actually do
a FULL gravity bleed once a year wether I've done brakes or not, it helps me
keep stopping in time.
-- -Josh 2000 Dakota CC 3.9L""Rick Barnes"" <barnesrv@attbi.com> wrote in message news:002c01c2c22d$d80a8480$0200a8c0@sys15... > > Good idea Josh. I am not ASE, but one thing I do is open the bleeder valve > on the caliper slightly, put a small hose on it, and then drain it into a > jar as I push the piston back in. That prevents the worn fluid from being > forced back into the master cylinder. Once the piston is back in, I go > ahead and bleed new fluid through the lines at that point. With the bleeder > slightly cracked open, it makes the piston easier to push back in too. > Rascal > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net > [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Josh Battles > Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 10:29 AM > To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net > Subject: DML: Re: RE: Re: Re: How to put new rowders and break pads on my > weels. > > > That's what an ASE in brakes gets you.... You can also use a smaller > C-clamp with that method as well. Personally I just jam a flat blade > screwdriver between the outside pad and the rotor and pull it most of the > way (if not all) before I remove the caliper. Remember, don't let the > calipers hang by the brake lines for too long it could cause problems later. > I bent up an old coathanger that I hook onto the wheel well to hang the > caliper from. Works great and the best part is that it's FREE. > > -- > -Josh > 2000 Dakota CC 3.9L > > > ""Rick Barnes"" <barnesrv@attbi.com> wrote in message > news:002401c2c225$4d5a3090$0200a8c0@sys15... > > > > Josh, great advice about leaving the old pad on. > > Rascal > > > > Subject: DML: Re: Re: How to put new rowders and break pads on my weels. > > > Other than that, the only "special tool" is a BIG C-clamp ( 7-8") to > > > compress the piston in the caliper. > > > > Just remember to get that piston in there straight. I find it's easiest > to > > do when you leave that one pad on. > >
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Feb 06 2004 - 11:45:45 EST