I've been toying with the idea of picking up some of the brembo drilled and
slotted rotors along with some nice pads. I'm not sure if I feel the need
to to the rear disc conversion just yet though. I think it will depend on
the wheels I put on next year. It's been a big money year for me so far and
I'm going to be lowering the truck this spring/summer so I think I'll just
wait until after the next winter to pick up some new wheels. 245/70-15's
should fit under there fine with the 2-3 drop right?
-- -Josh 2000 Dakota CC 3.9L""Rick Barnes"" <barnesrv@attbi.com> wrote in message news:003401c2c232$f8081db0$0200a8c0@sys15... > > Oh sure, you are right, they will need to be thoroughly bled after this, air > will definitely get in, but it does make the piston easier to push in and > prevents junk from being pushed back into your master cylinder. Always a > good idea to bleed your system annually too. I always do all the wheels, > (furthest from the master first), when I do any brake work. Though I don't > likely get it done annually, I do it at least whenever I work on my brakes. > Rascal > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net > [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Josh Battles > Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 11:04 AM > To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net > Subject: DML: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: Re: How to put new rowders and break pads > on my weels. > > > I never tried that with the bleeder screw before, I always thought that > there was too much porential for getting air in the system. A good gravity > bleed after you're done is always a good idea to get that old fluid out of > the calipers and wheel cylinders so you can stop good again. I actually do > a FULL gravity bleed once a year wether I've done brakes or not, it helps me > keep stopping in time. > > -- > -Josh > 2000 Dakota CC 3.9L > > > ""Rick Barnes"" <barnesrv@attbi.com> wrote in message > news:002c01c2c22d$d80a8480$0200a8c0@sys15... > > > > Good idea Josh. I am not ASE, but one thing I do is open the bleeder > valve > > on the caliper slightly, put a small hose on it, and then drain it into a > > jar as I push the piston back in. That prevents the worn fluid from being > > forced back into the master cylinder. Once the piston is back in, I go > > ahead and bleed new fluid through the lines at that point. With the > bleeder > > slightly cracked open, it makes the piston easier to push back in too. > > Rascal > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net > > [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Josh Battles > > Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 10:29 AM > > To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net > > Subject: DML: Re: RE: Re: Re: How to put new rowders and break pads on my > > weels. > > > > > > That's what an ASE in brakes gets you.... You can also use a smaller > > C-clamp with that method as well. Personally I just jam a flat blade > > screwdriver between the outside pad and the rotor and pull it most of the > > way (if not all) before I remove the caliper. Remember, don't let the > > calipers hang by the brake lines for too long it could cause problems > later. > > I bent up an old coathanger that I hook onto the wheel well to hang the > > caliper from. Works great and the best part is that it's FREE. > > > > -- > > -Josh > > 2000 Dakota CC 3.9L > > > > > > ""Rick Barnes"" <barnesrv@attbi.com> wrote in message > > news:002401c2c225$4d5a3090$0200a8c0@sys15... > > > > > > Josh, great advice about leaving the old pad on. > > > Rascal > > > > > > Subject: DML: Re: Re: How to put new rowders and break pads on my weels. > > > > Other than that, the only "special tool" is a BIG C-clamp ( 7-8") to > > > > compress the piston in the caliper. > > > > > > Just remember to get that piston in there straight. I find it's easiest > > to > > > do when you leave that one pad on. > > > > > >
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Feb 06 2004 - 11:45:45 EST