Re: Re: Install new stereo head unit

From: Bill Pitz (dakota@billpitz.com)
Date: Mon Feb 10 2003 - 22:52:54 EST


At 09:42 PM 2/10/2003 -0500, you wrote:
[snip]
>head unit with the amplifier turn on lead. Easy enough. Now I get sound when
>I'm playing CDs.

Yep, it's hardly "premium" :)

>Now my question is, if the truck already has an amplifier in it, and I'm
>running the output of my Alpine unit through it, seems like a less than
>optimal setup. The Alpine unit is rated for 60W/channel. Isn't this going to
>overload the amplifier that was already there? I found the amplifier behind
>the passenger kick panel thanks to some prior posts to this group. Does
>anyone have a wiring diagram? I'd like to try it bypassing the factory
>installed amp. Does anyone else have this situation? I would think running
>the Alpine directly to teh speakers would produce better sound.

I've toyed with the idea of doing that before. I don't have a wiring
diagram, but I have a decent understanding of how the whole system fits
together.

My solution is probably ultimately going to be adding a nice 4+1 channel
amp, but there's a lot of other things I want to spend money on before that. :)

Anyway, here's how you should be able to figure it out.

Going into the amp from the head unit should be 9 wires coming from the
receiver. This would be +/- for 4 speakers [match the colors up with what
comes out of the back of the receiver] plus the turn-on lead [same deal for
this]. Likewise, there should be +/- for each of the 4 speakers coming out
of the amp. [match the colors up with what connects to each of the
speakers] In addition, there should be the main power and ground
leads. There may well be an extra wire or two floating in there.

In theory, to bypass the factory amp, you ought to be able to cut off all
of the speaker leads and splice the appropriate ones together (front left +
-> front left +, and so on.. no brainer). You probably want to disconnect
the turn-on lead when you test this as well. There's no reason that I can
think of why it wouldn't work; I just haven't had the time to figure out
all of the colors. Of course, the real bummer is that if it doesn't work,
you now have a bunch of ugly spliced back together wires connecting your amp.

If you do try it, let me know how it works. BTW, what year is your truck?

-Bill

--
Bill Pitz <dakota@billpitz.com>
'00 Dakota CC SLT 4x4
4.7L V8, 3.92lsd, Flowmaster 50 series



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