That's weird, I guess the school just wanted the $$$
-- -Josh 2000 Dakota CC 3.9L<biokiller@ameritech.net> wrote in message news:3E5E4A47.6050806@ameritech.net... > > ) > Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 11:26:31 -0600 > From: Tom Buban <biokiller@ameritech.net> > Reply-To: TomBuban@4wheelair.com > User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Windows NT 5.0; en-US; rv:1.0.1) Gecko/20020823 Netscape/7.0 > X-Accept-Language: en-us, en > MIME-Version: 1.0 > To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net > CC: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net > Subject: Re: DML: Re: Untitled > References: <3E5E0142.5020001@ameritech.net> <b3l8rb$n1e$1@bent.twistedbits.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > You don't need a new tip. All you do is go over to the grinder, and > reshape the tip. We do lots of tig on roll cages, and haven't had to > replace them yet. > > Josh Battles wrote: > > >Tig welding is one of the hardest types of welding to get good at though, > >and can be very expensive for the average user...if you touch the tip to the > >workpiece you need a new tip. Those things aren't cheap, I don't even want > >to think of how many I had to buy when I was learning...too expensive. It > >does look amazing when you're done though! You're definately right about > >that! > > > >-- > >-Josh > >2000 Dakota CC 3.9L > > > > > > > > > >>In my opinion, the best way to weld exhaust is Tig. I did this for the > >>exhaust on my truck. Make it look almost seamless. > >> > >>Just my .02 > >> > >>Tom > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > >
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