Excellent tips......Ray!!.....should help out quite a few guy's!!
Although I do like the way the K&N filters do help over the Fram or paper
type filters.
Ther usually good for at least 3-5 horsepower.
Ron-
Co-owner: Muscletrucks.net
website: http://www.muscletrucks.net
e-mail: scsilverdak@hotmail.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "RayB" <bpracing@worldnet.att.net>
To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2003 9:09 PM
Subject: DML: RE: How to make some "REAL" power?
>
> Strategy for cost-effective Mo-Power. This is written for a Gen II V6
> automatic but most tips apply to all.
>
> The first place to start is removing parasitic drag.
>
> The following tips will work on anything and give you more performance and
> gas mileage if they've been neglected. I've seen a performance loss
> equating to 10 HP from one slightly sticking caliper.
>
> Synthetic wheel bearing grease with bearings properly adjusted per FSM.
> Anti-seize compound on the caliper ramps and pad ears where they make
metal
> to metal contact.
> Silicone grease on the caliper pins where they go through the rubber
> bushings.
> Anti-seize compound on the rear brake backing plates where there is any
> metal to metal contact. Also on the self adjusters.
> Verify the parking brake is not dragging and the brakes are not over
> adjusted.
> Lube any u-joint fittings.
> Synthetic oil in the engine. (I've had great success with 10w30 Mobil
> 1)(heavier weight oils will rob some horsepower)
> Synthetic rear end lube (with LSD additive if so equipped).
> [Avoid overfilling either.]
> Proper tire inflation and alignment.
> Use a tonneau cover.
> Don't carry around unnecessary weight.
>
> note - use anti-seize sparingly. a THIN film will do fine.
> ---------------------
>
> Next, your basic tune up.
> 180 degree Robertshaw thermostat. Proper mix of anti-freeze and water.
> A good brass terminal cap and rotor, good quality wires (i like MSD 8.5),
> and 3924 Autolite plugs gapped at .035 (if most of your driving is in
town.
> Otherwise .040 would be ok). I would only recommend the 3923's if you
> experience any pinging with good quality 87 or 89 octane gas. A stock
coil
> in good condition is all you need.
> The type of air cleaner that came on most Gen II's is plenty adequate.
> (round canister directly on top of throttle body with a single snorkel.
> Takes a circular air filter.) A clean Fram, or equivalent, filter works
> just as good as a drop-in K&N. Avoid the open-element 14x3 type!!
>
> Now the cheap performance mods...
> Use the stock plastic hose from the air cleaner to the grille. Sliding
some
> silver dryer ducting over it will reflect heat better. Remove the
plastic
> splash shield in front of the air hose at the grille. You can then trim
off
> the flat part of the shield and attach it to the back of your horizontal
> grille bars with a couple zip ties. You'll then be able to slide it from
> side to side depending on whether you want a direct shot of air to the
inlet
> or want to cover it from bugs and rain. Performance is about the same
> either way on a 318.
>
> For a little fuel enrichment, assuming you need it or are experiencing
> pinging, get another IAT sensor, drill a hole for it in the air cleaner
> snorkel, screw it in and attach the original connector to it. It reached
> fine on mine. This gives you two IAT locations to experiment with.
>
> For your transmission, adjust the throttle valve (TV) cable per the FSM.
> What you want to achieve is at WOT, the kickdown lever on the side of the
> transmission is at full travel rearward. Change the fluid and filter and
> adjust the bands if it hasn't been done for awhile. You can also increase
> the line pressure more while the pan is off. See FSM.
>
> Or, you can add a transmission shift kit. I like TransGo. Take your
pick.
>
> By now you should be noticing an improvement in performance and gas
mileage.
> This stuff so far may seem very basic but it's worth the performance
> equivalent of several hundred dollars in additional bolt-ons.
> ------------------
>
> Now you can spend more money. :-)
> note - a 2.5" exhaust system is plenty for a naturally aspirated V6. (good
> all-around torque and perf.)(3" for V8's) If you already have 3" it's
fine
> too.
> If your stock cat is 3" in and out it will be fine. Otherwise, a high
flow
> cat might be in order.
> If your muffler is stock, I'd recommend either a Gibson replacement or the
> Gibson cat-bak. They're tuned for good low and mid-range torque and hp
> gains but still work fine on my 318 at 6000.
> A single tailpipe is best for performance. Choose dual exit if you like
but
> know there's a small loss.
> A stock V8 throttle body would be plenty or if you score a deal on a
ported
> V6 it would be fine also. A ported V8 one could be too much. With either
> of these you might need to tweak the TPS a little. Wait and see. There's
> no performance gain in the TPS mod but it can make up for some drivability
> issues.
>
> The next most cost effective mod is underdrive pulleys. I've used March
> Performance pulleys in both the power and "power and amp" versions.
> Performance gain was essentially the same (1.5 tenths and 1.5 mph) but the
> power & amp version gives better charging at idle (although not quite as
> good as stock). It that's an issue with your type of driving, then find
> some other brand that doesn't slow down the alternator.
>
> Then a MP PCM if available. Be prepared to us premium fuel.
>
> Now, if you still have money left, :-) I'd recommend a 3.90 LSD. It will
> give you better acceleration and can actually improve your gas mileage in
> city driving without hurting much at all on the highway.
> -------------
>
> I can assure you if you've followed this recipe up to here you will easily
> outrun any equivalent Dak, even if it has a few more bolt-on goodies. And
> you'll get better mileage. :-)
>
> To go beyond this will require much more expensive mods that are not as
cost
> effective. If you want more anyway, go with headers, 1.7 RR's or a mild
cam
> with 1.6 RR, minor head porting, or nitrous or a blower. A super charger
> would give you the most gain for the money but they're not for everyone.
>
> To anyone who follows this recipe....let us know how it worked for you.
My
> results are in the link in my sig.
>
> RayB
> http://www.dragtruk.com/ENTRIES/20KM1FD2KWBP.html
>
>
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