Kyle
Your 92 is a great starting point for a performance v6 application. The
92/93 model years were rated at an extra 5hp from the factory due to higher
flow exhaust manifolds, y pipe and 3in exhaust to the muffler. I used to
own a 93 3.9l dakota. With a 5 speed, a 3.55 gears sure grip rear, cat back
exhaust, and a drop in k&n filter it did the 1/4 mile in 16 flat. That was
my first time at the track also so I know it would of seen 15's with
practice.
Here are my recomendations for you
First off make sure the engine is in good general tune. Get a set of good
quality plug wires and distributor cap/rotor combo. I'd then upgrade to a
set of autolite 3923 spark plugs and a 180deg thermostat. The stock exhaust
is fine, if anything I would throw on a better quality performance muffler
just for the sound.
Next you need to focus on the intake side. I had good results with a
fastman throttle body. I actually just sold the 46mm fastman tb with the
92/93 style linkage on it. The guy that bought it decided to sell his truck
before he had a chance to put the tb on so he is now looking to get rid of
the tb. His names brian, I cant seem to find his email addy but if you have
aol Instant messenger his sn is Fnl2, or you can find him over on the
moparchat.com forums under the screen name 93dakotafl.
After you do the throttle body another good upgrade is a 14x3 open element
filter. My personal experience this has worked better that the stock box
with a k&n or a tube style intake with a cone filter. Some say your doing
more harm that good sucking in warm engine compartment air, but you have to
realize that when you are moving the engine compartment is being flooded
with cool outside air. The only time you'd really need to worry about
sucking in the hot engine compartment air is if you were sitting still, and
why would you need to make HP when ya werent moving.
The biggest gain I saw when modding the 93 was with the addition of the
mopar performance computer. It is a 92/93 model year deal only and is
auto/manuel trans generic. If your going to buy it from a dealer you need
to give them the part number p5249521, they will never find it other wise.
I dont beleive it was ever listed in a mopar performance catelog. If you
want to save a few bucks, I have a friend that just completed a v6/v8 swap
on his truck. He now has a mopar performance v6 pcm for sale. His names
daniel and his email is sparkplugracing@yahoo.com. This gives the truck a
fairly aggressive spark curve and I experienced slight detonation with 93
octane untill I installed the 180 t stat and autolite 3923's.
The next thing I would focus on would be the rear end. I have good results
with a 3.90 gear in my current truck, but it is a 5 speed. If you dont do
too much high way driving I would suggest 4.10 gears for the rear since you
have an auto. Add a dana trac lock sure gip while your at it.
www.4wheelparts.com has good prices on both.
Now I would focus on the tranny. I do not have too much experience in
this area do to both of my trucks have been 5 speeds. I do hear that
transgo makes a nice shift kit. You can probably get a good deal on one
through Bernd.
This simple mods will really give your v6 a kick in the a$$. I would
start from here then work on internal engine mods once you see where these
take you. Heres my dragtruck page for my old 93, I expect you should see
simular results http://www.dragtruck.com/ENTRIES/PZP01OJ9SV84.html
Greg Conner
1996 RC
3.9 hybrid
>From: "Kyle Vanditmars" <kylevan@telus.net>
>Reply-To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
>To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
>Subject: DML: Re: RE: How to make some "REAL" power?
>Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 11:37:45 -0800
>
>""RayB"" <bpracing@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
>news:DHELJEKAGJCDGEGBEHHJGECNCOAA.bpracing@worldnet.att.net...
> >
> > Well Kyle, before I'd make recommendations to anyone I'd want to know
>what
> > you already have.
> > What year, model, transmission, rear end gear, etc.
>'92, RC, SB, V6 (duh), 4x2, auto (probably one of my biggest hinderances,
>perhaps a manual trans swap?) 3.55 rear gears and open diff.
>
> > Then, how do you use the truck? Daily driver, city or highway, drag
>strip,
> > towing?
>
>Daily driving, mainly city. Towing won't be a huge issue, as long as I can
>haul a bunch of branches or scrap wood down to the dump. Perhaps haul a
>crate motor, too :-)
>
> > Then, what do you want out of the truck? Enough performance to outrun a
> > stock V6 or enough to keep up with a stock V8?
>
>Basically, I wouldn't mind dipping to 'round about 16.5 in the quarter.
>Although, I don't know what she'll run as is, so this goal is based on
>other
>trucks that I've looked at on the internet. I'll have to wait until the
>Friday night drags at the local strip start up again to set a "real" goal.
>
> > What compromises are you prepared to deal with regarding drivability or
>gas
> > mileage?
>
>Gas mileage isn't too big a concern, as long as I'm not running like 10mpg
>when commuting. If I have to run higher octane (which wouldn't really be
>necessary, I would think, unless I get a custom PCM flash,) I don't really
>mind, though. I am concerned about emissions testing. I believe now that
>my truck's more than 10 years old, I have slightly more lenient standards,
>but in British Columbia, things are fairly stringent. I had a particularly
>hard time getting the oxides of nitrogen down to passing level. I ended up
>having to buy a new catalytic converter to replace the 2-year-old one that
>was on the truck when I bought it.
>
> > How deep is your wallet?
> >
>
>Well, this is really a dreaming list, but let's set an upper limit of $1500
>US... minus $250 for a Sure Grip differential. So let's say $1300 or so.
>
>Thanks, Ray.
>
>
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