Why didn't you tell me that BEFORE? :) It probably would have come off
without the puller. Live and learn I suppose.
--Aaron--
95 DSRC 4x4 V6
From: "greg conner" <dodgeboy93@hotmail.com>
Reply-To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: RE: DML: Timing Chain replacement help? attn:Aaron
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 16:40:45 -0400
That crank sprocket should have come off without a puller. I have never had
to use one on it.
Greg Conner
1996 RC
3.9 hybrid
>From: "A. S." <adakota4x4@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
>To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
>Subject: RE: DML: Timing Chain replacement help? attn:Aaron
>Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 17:16:28 +0000
>
>
>Rich,
> It's not funny.....I don't know why you're laughing. :) This is what
>happened: I get the timing chain cover off and I'm ready to take the crank
>and cam sprockets off. I remove the crank bolt. Next I grab my 3-jaw
>puller and procede to remove the crank sprocket. Well, you know the center
>pin in the puller that pushes against a surface to remove a gear/sprocket?
>That was centered where the crank bolt used to be, but I thought it was
>resting on the outside edges of the hole. It wasn't. It ended up messing
>up the first couple of threads in the crank.
> That in itself is bad enough. You realize that the crank bolt isn't
>going back in with the threads like they are and you don't have a tap big
>enough to clean up the mess. Then you're mechanic buddy (who will remain
>nameless) suggests that we try cutting some eges into the end of the crank
>bolt on the grinder to make it work like a "self drilling/tapping" bolt.
>That DOES NOT work. So, you end up ordering a new bolt and buying a big
>tap.
> Go ahead...laugh it up. :)
>--Aaron--
>95 DSRC 4x4 V6
>P.S. This mess can easily be avoid by leaving the crank bolt loose but in
>place.
>
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