Ron,
You should be fine just using the 2 terminals in the coil lead. I didn't
have to ground it elsewhere. I used a test light and it lit when I was cranking
only. You probably already made sure you're using the right setting on the
meter:)
I know how frustrating this can be so I pulled out my FSM. I have a '93 w/
OBD I. I THINK '95's are still OBD I, maybe someone can verify this. On
mine, the coil wire are DG/OR and GY.
The GY (-) goes to pin 19 on the PCM connector. If you keep the connector
screwed to the PCM but snap off the cover, you can access the pins. When you
are looking at the exposed wires, pin 1 is at the top right and counts up from
right to left. Pin 19 is the second from top left.
The DG/OR wire (+) goes from the coil to 2 major splices. The first splice
branches off to injectors 2,4,6,8, the alternator, and pin 57, 4th from bottom
left on the PCM (which they call Automatic Shut Down-Battery Supply). The
second splice goes to injectors 1,3,5,7, o2 sensor,and battery. Since the GY
wire is the negative that goes to pin 19, you might want to hook up the volt
meter (+) to pin 57 and voltmeter (-) to pin 19.
Disclaimer--I'm not an expert! Anyone with some advise, please chime in!
This is according to my '93 FSM.
Good Luck!
James
In a message dated 7/6/2003 8:46:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
menoldre@adelphia.net writes:
> Thanks James,
>
> I will check it again. What I did was three things. With the two leads of
> the voltmeter in the two female parts of the connector that plugs into the
> coil, I first checked it with the key off, second with the key on, third with
> my wife starting it.
>
> All three were zero.
>
> I later thought about it and thought that maybe the way to check it was one
> lead in one of the connector holes and one to ground. I did this only with
> the key in the on position, not with the key in the start position (cranking).
>
> When you did your check, did you have both leads of the voltmeter in each
> hole in the connector? If so, then I did do that with zero volts when
> cranking (wife behind the wheel).
>
> I will double check again though.
>
> Thanks,
> -Ron
>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <A HREF="mailto:JAMEPC@aol.com">JAMEPC@aol.com</A>
>> To: <A HREF="mailto:aol@dakota-truck.net">aol@dakota-truck.net</A>
>> Cc: <A HREF="mailto:menoldre@adelphia.net">menoldre@adelphia.net</A>
>> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 7:16 PM
>> Subject: Re: DML: Help! Dead Dakota
>>
>>
>> Ron,
>> Did you miss my previous post? I stated "I'm pretty sure you have to
>> check the voltage going into the coil while the key is turned all the way in
>> (like you're trying to start it) and not just with it in the on position. Of
>> course that will take 2 people." I verified this on my '93 and it IS the
>> case. Someone MUST hold the key all the way on and turn the engine over while
>> you are checking the voltage to the coil. If you check it with it just with
>> the key in the on position, it will read 0.
>> James
>>
>> P.S. I'll send this directly to menoldre@adelphia.net also in case theres
>> another AOL problem and thats why you didn't see my other post.
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 7/6/2003 6:02:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>> bernd@texas.net writes:
>>
>> >>> Ron,
>>>
>>> Have you checked the junction box under the hood (and the in-cab fuse
>>> box) for the ignition fuse?
>>>
>>> - Bernd
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
>>> [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Ron
>>> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 3:31 PM
>>> To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
>>> Subject: Re: DML: Help! Dead Dakota
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I checked the resistance on the new coil. Specs out fine according to
>>> the book. What is perplexing me is that there is no voltage on the
>>> leads to the coil. The voltmeter works when I test it across the
>>> battery. With the ignition on I would think that voltage would be
>>> present and lack of voltage is indicative of something earlier on in the
>>> chain not getting voltage. I suppose I need to check to see if the SMEC
>>> is getting voltage itself. Spending $300 is not my idea of fun.
>>>
>>> As to the coil pickup, when I test the coil with the screwdriver up the
>>> end of the coil wire taken off of the dist. cap, I am before the coil
>>> pickup stage, while it might need replacing, I should see spark at this
>>> stage as long as the coil is working, and I don't (with either coil).
>>>
>>> I must say that this is kind of frustrating. It will take me about
>>> 50-60 dollars to have this towed to the shop about 2 miles down the
>>> street should I choose to do so. If the SMEC is 300 dollars, I just
>>> might do that since it is cheaper to tow than to buy something that I
>>> don't need. Funny thing is though if I do need it, I have just added
>>> the cost of towing and labor.
>>>
>>> But I haven't given up yet.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> -Ron M.
>>> 95 CC V6 Sport
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Rick Barnes" <barnesrv@comcast.net>
>>> To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
>>> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 4:17 PM
>>> Subject: RE: DML: Help! Dead Dakota
>>>
>>>
>>> >
>>> >I vote you try another coil, then the coil pickup, much cheaper.
>>> >
>>> >Rascal
>>> >
>>> >-----Original Message-----
>>> >From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
>>> >[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Bernd D.
>>>
>>> >Ratsch
>>> >Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 5:08 PM
>>> >To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
>>> >Subject: RE: DML: Help! Dead Dakota
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >Yes, they do go bad and can fail like what you're describing.
>>> >
>>> >Replacements run about $290-$350 depending on dealer.
>>> >
>>> >- Bernd
>>> >
>>> >-----Original Message-----
>>> >From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
>>> >[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Ron
>>> >Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 1:51 PM
>>> >To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
>>> >Subject: Re: DML: Help! Dead Dakota
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >Replying to myself again.
>>> >
>>> >I tried the screwdriver stuck in the end of the coil wire close to the
>>>
>>> >engine block. Nothing on either the old or new coil when cranking.
>>> >Also tried the screwdriver direct from the top of the coil to near the
>>>
>>> >block, no spark.
>>> >
>>> >I retested the voltage feeding into the coil taking each lead to
>>> >ground, no voltage.
>>> >
>>> >Haynes calls the electronic thingy a SMEC (Single Module Engine
>>> >Controller). Do these things go bad? Are they expensive? How many
>>> >vote that I give up and take it to a shop :)
>>> >
>>> >Thanks,
>>> >-Ron M
>>> >95 V6 CC Sport
>>> >
>>> >----- Original Message -----
>>> >From: "Ron" <menoldre@adelphia.net>
>>> >To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
>>> >Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 12:56 PM
>>> >Subject: Re: DML: Help! Dead Dakota
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >>
>>> >>Okay, today's saga. I bought a voltmeter and checked the voltage at
>>>
>>> >>the
>>> >new
>>> >>solder/splice and it read battery voltage, so it was a good solder
>>> >>joint. I then put the two leads into the connector that feeds the
>>> >>ignition coil. It read zero. I turned the ignition on it still read
>>>
>>> >>zero. I had my wife crank the engine and it still read zero.
>>> >>
>>> >>Question, is the voltage to the ignition coil a constant voltage or
>>> >>is
>>> >
>>> >>it intermitent as fed by the PCM. If intermitent, or instantanious,
>>>
>>> >>would a voltmeter set on DC volts read the voltage?
>>> >>
>>> >>Also, can you take the ignition coil and hold the top (where the
>>> >>spark
>>> >plug
>>> >>wire goes) close to ground/engine block and expect to see a spark
>>> >>when
>>> >
>>> >>cranking? I haven't done this yet, but it seems like you should be
>>> >>able
>>> >to
>>> >>do this.
>>> >>
>>> >>Thanks,
>>> >>-Ron M
>>> >>95 CC V6 Sport
>>> >>
>>> >>----- Original Message -----
>>> >>From: "Rick Barnes" <barnesrv@comcast.net>
>>> >>To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
>>> >>Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2003 9:08 PM
>>> >>Subject: RE: DML: Help! Dead Dakota
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>>
>>> >>>Coil or coil pickup, (in the distributor)...
>>> >>>
>>> >>>Rascal
>>> >>>
>>> >>>-----Original Message-----
>>> >>>From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
>>> >>>[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Ron
>>> >>>Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2003 8:42 PM
>>> >>>To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
>>> >>>Subject: Re: DML: Help! Dead Dakota
>>> >>>
>>> >>>
>>> >>>Am I allowed to reply to my own message :)
>>> >>>
>>> >>>Hey, so I finally pulled one of the spark plugs, reattached the
>>> >>>wire,
>>> >>wife
>>> >>>cranked the car and no spark. Went to the store, they thought
>>> >>>ignition
>>> >>coil
>>> >>>and talked me out of cap and rotor. 33 dollars later, still no
>>> >>>spark.
>>> >>Next
>>> >>>trip is cap, rotor, and wires I suppose.
>>> >>>
>>> >>>I am thinking I should also buy an ohmmeter and check power to the
>>>
>>> >>>coil.
>>> >>>
>>> >>>Any other thoughts as it just started raining and the truck is
>>> >>>outside,
>>> >so
>>> >>I
>>> >>>am in.
>>> >>>
>>> >>>Thanks,
>>> >>>-Ron M.
>>> >>>95 CC V6 Sport
>>> >>>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >
>>>
>>
>>
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Feb 06 2004 - 11:46:35 EST