Re: Burnt Valve

From: Kyle Vanditmars (kylevan@telus.net)
Date: Thu Aug 21 2003 - 00:52:43 EDT


Michael Clark wrote:
> If it turns out that I have a burnt valve, will the
> head need to be machined? If the head needs to have
> the valve seat machined could that cause a flow
> differential between it and the other head?
>

Ahem... I'm sure we've all been waiting to do this... it's time to...
<gameshow announcer voice> *SPEND MICHAEL CLARK'S MONEY* </gameshow
announcer voice>

I think that since you're gonna have to partially disassemble the
valvetrain anyway to get the heads off, you'll need to get a longer
duration/higher lift cam, with matching valvesprings, skookum pushrods,
and some 1.6 roller rockers. Then, since that longer duration cam will
raise the power band some (which will nicely complement the M1
manifold,) and since the heads are off anyway you should get the heads
ported, and maybe some larger valves while you're at it. By doing this,
you ensure that you've evened out the flow between each head. And,
since you're getting machine work done, you might as well mill the head
a little bit, and bring that compression ratio up some. Now, once
everything's back together, you'll probably have to make some
modifications to the driveline to fully take advantage of the new setup.
  First, a higher-stall converter is in order, probably an APS Precision
2400 or 2800 stall. You will also need a set of 4.10 gears and an ARB
air locker diff. While you've got the rearend disassembled, you might
as well get a lightened, balanced driveshaft. Now, you're making power
beyond the RPMs that the transmission was set up to shift for, so you'll
need a modified valve body for WOT shifts either just as the cam dies
off or before the MP ECU cuts fuel, whichever comes first.

What was the question again?



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