LOL!!
Man, I wish *I* had a burnt valve now!
-- Phil Batson '00 4x4 CC 4.7L http://www.ogzr.org/vrman/vrtruck.jpg "Kyle Vanditmars" <kylevan@telus.net> wrote in message news:bi1j3f$g4o$1@bent.twistedbits.net... > > Michael Clark wrote: > > If it turns out that I have a burnt valve, will the > > head need to be machined? If the head needs to have > > the valve seat machined could that cause a flow > > differential between it and the other head? > > > > Ahem... I'm sure we've all been waiting to do this... it's time to... > <gameshow announcer voice> *SPEND MICHAEL CLARK'S MONEY* </gameshow > announcer voice> > > I think that since you're gonna have to partially disassemble the > valvetrain anyway to get the heads off, you'll need to get a longer > duration/higher lift cam, with matching valvesprings, skookum pushrods, > and some 1.6 roller rockers. Then, since that longer duration cam will > raise the power band some (which will nicely complement the M1 > manifold,) and since the heads are off anyway you should get the heads > ported, and maybe some larger valves while you're at it. By doing this, > you ensure that you've evened out the flow between each head. And, > since you're getting machine work done, you might as well mill the head > a little bit, and bring that compression ratio up some. Now, once > everything's back together, you'll probably have to make some > modifications to the driveline to fully take advantage of the new setup. > First, a higher-stall converter is in order, probably an APS Precision > 2400 or 2800 stall. You will also need a set of 4.10 gears and an ARB > air locker diff. While you've got the rearend disassembled, you might > as well get a lightened, balanced driveshaft. Now, you're making power > beyond the RPMs that the transmission was set up to shift for, so you'll > need a modified valve body for WOT shifts either just as the cam dies > off or before the MP ECU cuts fuel, whichever comes first. > > What was the question again? >
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