"Wilbur" <bwgreen@ocean.otr.usm.edu> wrote in message
news:bu72jf$leu$1@bent.twistedbits.net...
> suppose I should replace the other one of the pair too? Should I
> replace all the valve springs and and locks and retainers and valve stem
> oil seals for all 4 cylinders or just for cyl #1?
Might as well do them all as long as you're in there...
> The push rods looked okay from cyl #1, not bent or anything and I have
> the rockers, bridge and pivot assembly and bolts (also looked fine)
> sitting in a box in the correct order to put back on.
this is important, make sure you don't get them mixed up, or you'll be in
for a world of ticking noises.
> As for replacing the valve springs...from what i can see online, some
> peeps recommend using air pressure via the spark plug hole to keep the
> valve seated while taking off the spring....I don't have an air
> compressor at all to maintain the recommended pressure (90psi) to keep
> the valve seated. Any other recommendations to keep the valve seated
> while I remove the spring? Could I tie some string to the valve stem
> after I have it compressed to keep it from falling into the cylinder?
> Oh and do the valve compressors you can get at autozone and O'reillys
> work for this kind of job? Thanks.
Pull the head, send it out to have it magnafluxed for cracks and have new
springs/retainers installed. They'll even put it in a solvent tank, clean
it, and take care of everything for you. IMO, the piece of mind is worth
the $40 - $80. (I've never had only 1 head done, I've always had a V6 or
V8.) Besides, it only takes a day and then you don't have to worry about
"killing" yourself with a valvespring. (be careful if you decide to tackle
this, those suckers can come off of there like little rockets if you're not
paying attention)
-- - Josh Lowered 2000 Dakota CC 3.9L www.geocities.com/lenny187/dakota.html www.omg-stfu.com
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