The 1st clean the IAC. Back side of the TB. Rempove the electrical plub,
and the 2 torx screws. Carb or brake cleaner will get it tidy. DO NOT TURN
OR TWIST IT. That is a $75 mistake!!!!
Better yet, remove the TB, and douche it with said brake/carb cleaner. I'll
venture a guess that the underside of the blades are carboned up as well.
Consider this normal maint to be done whenever you swap spark plugs.
If that fails to clear up the issue, my next guess would be a TPS going
south.
TonyC
-----Original Message-----
From: Phillip Batson <pbatson68@yahoo.com>
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
Date: Monday, January 19, 2004 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: DML: What might be causing this?
>
>Nope, wasn't using the A/C or defroster.
>
>--- Terrible Tom <SilverEightynine@aol.com> wrote:
>>
>> Phillip Batson wrote:
>> > I noticed today when I got to work and parked, I
>> let
>> > the engine run a couple of minutes while I was
>> > preparing to go into the building, and it kept
>> > dropping to ~500rpm then move up to ~700rpm then
>> back
>> > down again. It did it a few times before it evened
>> > out.
>> >
>> > I know its time to change the plugs and do my oil
>> > again, but could that be the cause? Just wondering
>> if
>> > I need to possibly look into changing plug wires,
>> > distributor etc. I've got about 55k on it now.
>> I've
>> > been changing the plugs every 10-15k.
>>
>> If you were at idle with the defroster running, your
>> AC compressor
>> (assuming you have AC) would be kicking in and out
>> as part of the
>> defrost cycle. That could account for RPM
>> fluctuations.
>>
>> --
>>
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>> Terrible Tom -- AIM & Yahoo Name: SilverEightynine
>>
>
>
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