Cap and rotor: remove airhat and airbox, climb on top of motor. Cuss as
you drop the little screws into no man's land and they don't hit the
driveway. Reverse procedure to put it back together.
TonyC
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Grace <pgrace@fierymoon.com>
To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
<dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
Date: Sunday, February 22, 2004 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: DML: RE: Re: The Great Spark Plug Debacle
>
>-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
>Hash: SHA1
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>Tony,
> Thanks for the input! I was thinking of using a vice grip. My misfire
>problem? I had wires 1 and 3 mixed up. She runs good as new now. :)
>
>#5 is goign to have to be changed next weekend when I can enlist the
>help of my mechanic and bro-in-law, both who are accomplished mechanics
>and probably have a few tricks up their sleeves in regards to the brake
>booster and plug location -- I kept saying to myself "If I only had a
>half inch extender instead of a 2 inch! Then I could actually ratchet
>this thing without a swivel head!"
>
>Alas, it is not to be.
>
>On a related note, I have this MSD coil that has it's screws rusted in
>place -- I think it's attached to the same bracket as the serpentine
>tensioner -- I'm thinking if I just remove the tensioner then the coil
>will come off too, making it an easy way to get at those rusted screws!
>
>Thanks for the input everyone! I'll get that damn plug changed soon
>enough. Then the fun part will be, getting at the distributor cap -- I
>think I'll either have to remove the hood or the throttle body to get at
>it -- that or climb right into the engine compartment! :)
>
>Thanks,
>(Very) Dirty Pete
>
>Tony Cellana wrote:
>
>| The old plug won't cause a misfire due to a different heat range. It
will
>| if its bad though. ;-)
>|
>| On a note related to the initial portion of the thread; The heat shields
>| are spring steel and are just pressed in. Use a vice grip. Clamp onto
an
>| end corner, and twist towards the other corner and outwards from the
head.
>|
>| Also, soaking with penetrating oil may make it a little easier. The
WORST
>| case scenario is having to pull the head, and a helicoil in the plug
hole.
>| If this is within your mechanical ability, try getting it out with an air
>| ratchet. If it breaks, then you at least know what you could be up
>against.
>|
>| TonyC
>|
>|
>| -----Original Message-----
>| From: Peter Grace <pgrace@fierymoon.com>
>| To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
>| <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
>| Date: Sunday, February 22, 2004 1:12 PM
>| Subject: Re: DML: RE: Re: The Great Spark Plug Debacle
>|
>|
>|
>|>-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
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>|>Ray,
>|>I was considering trying that -- my problem is that both bolts are
>|>rusted on to the shield... I was going to attempt to do the job without
>|>that. I was able to get #5 to budge a little bit today, but it took as
>|>much torque as I could possibly muster to move it even a millimeter...
>|>
>|>On a side note, I said screw it and left the bosch plug in #5 and
>|>reprogrammed the PCM -- as I expected, I am idling rough and when I put
>|>it into reverse for the test drive, it started to backfire slightly.
>|>
>|>Could having the old plug in there cause the backfiring, or are one of
>|>my plug wires not seated correctly?
>|>
>|>Pete
>|>
>|>
>|>
>|>Ray Irons wrote:
>|>| I've had difficulty in the past getting #5 out of the head. What gave
>|>me the
>|>| clearance I needed was not removing the Brake Booster, but removing
>|>the heat
>|>| shield (insulation blanket?) from the exhaust manifold. I know it
>doesn't
>|>| seem like much but it makes a difference.
>|>|
>|>| Ray Irons
>|>| Dover, DE
>|>|
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>|>
>|
>|
>
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