I've had difficulty in the past getting #5 out of the head. What gave me the
clearance I needed was not removing the Brake Booster, but removing the heat
shield (insulation blanket?) from the exhaust manifold. I know it doesn't
seem like much but it makes a difference.
Ray Irons
Dover, DE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net]On Behalf Of DAKSY
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 3:29 PM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: DML: Re: The Great Spark Plug Debacle
Hey, Pete,
<snip> I'm afraid to torque it any harder, will I shatter the plug? <snip>
I don't think it'll shatter, but I HAVE broken the ceramic end off in the
past...that actually made getting a socket on the hex a little easier...it
allows for the socket to engage the hex at a slight angle of straight
alignment isn't feasible...
<snip> My question becomes, is there a way for me to remove the brake
booster? <snip>
Not sure what year DAK you've got, but the 2K FSM says there's a way to do
it...
1. Remove the master cylinder
2. Dicconnect the vacuum lines at the booster
3. Remove the clip securing the booster push rod to the brake pedal (in cab)
4. Remove the nuts from the booster mounting studs (also in cab)
5. Remove the booster, spacer and gaskets from the front cowl panel
No mention of special tools...
If you're gonna perform the above procedure, e-mail me & I'll send you the
reassembly steps & associated torque values...
HTH,
Bob Smith (DAKSY2K on AIM)
(FSM at the ready!)
Averill Park, NY
2K DAK SY CC Sport + V6 4X4 5 Speed
WebPage URL: http://home.nycap.rr.com/daksy/
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Mon Mar 01 2004 - 00:34:04 EST