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On 7/7/2004 9:25 PM, Slartibartfast wrote:
| Thanks for the replies. Even the tangential brake thread was helpful.
|
| I'm towing a Nissan Sentra SE-R (SCCA ITA) car. I guess full-up
weight for
| car/trailer would be about 5,000 pounds. Even with the car way back
on the
| trailer, the truck sags. Them Dodge guys ruined a good truck by trying to
| make a car out of it. That's why I was asking about the R/T pieces, the
| truck is just too soft. I saw load-distributing hitches when I was
shopping
| for a receiver hitch; I guess I'll have to go that route.
These trucks will handle 5K trailers pretty well if you set everything
up properly (which is why you see "when properly equipped" next to tow
ratings). It's going to sag *some* - you're putting extra weight on it!
~ How much are you sagging?
You really should look at the weight-distributing hitch. If the WD
hitch doesn't work, a Roadmaster kit (in addition) may help. It helped
stabilize my father's Durango & 27' travel trailer - and he's well past
your 5000 pounds.
Stop guessing on the weight. Get the loaded trailer to scales and get
tongue & axle weights.
| As for brakes, I am a firm believer in solid friction surfaces.
Rotors are
| indeed warped. Badly. I know of Hawk and EBC, maybe Carbo Tech has
| something, too. I bet even low-temp stock pads will probably work fine if
| bedded properly (not like manual says!).
Do you have brakes on the trailer? Makes a world of difference.
| Bruce in Houston soon to be needing ball joints. Come on recall!
Don't wait on the recall to get balljoints. May never happen. In the
meantime, if your joints are bad, they're not going to get healthier,
and could fail completely. Get them fixed, keep the receipt, get
reimbursed when (if) a recall happens.
- --
- -andy
http://home.rochester.rr.com/alevy/dakota - andy-dml@levyclan.us
- --------------------------------------------
"Whatever Adam does, do the opposite and you'll be fine"
-Bob Tom
- --------------------------------------------
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