There are a couple of good ways to hold the valves up while you change the
seals. You can either #1) fill the cylinder with rope through the spark
plug hole with the piston at BDC.. #2) attach air line to fitting
matching spark plug threads, and pressurize cylinder.. #1) is actually
supposed to be easier and more failsafe.. once you have the cylinder filled
with rope.. a little turn of the crank with compress it snug to the vavles.
#2) will however allow you to hear where any compression leakages may be.
just listen for it hissing.
Hope it helps
Aaron Wyse
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Hedlin" <garyhedlin@sbcglobal.net>
To: <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2004 8:21 PM
Subject: Re: DML: Recommendation Needed
>
> On 7/18/04 8:01 PM, in article BD208723.7531%blkwidow1@primary.net, ""Jon
N.
> Benignus"" <blkwidow1@primary.net> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> >> The extra cylinder pressure created by
> >>> properly sealing valves and seals may start reaking havok on those old
> >>> rings...
> > New valve seals would have nothing to do with raising compression. It
would
> > only prevent oil from getting past the valve stems.
> >
> > Gary, try doing a "wet" compression check on the low pressure cylinders.
If
> > the pressure comes up a bunch, then you are looking at rings. If the
> > comprssion comes up only 5 or so psi, you are looking at bad valves due
to a
> > poor head rebuild. Just replace the heads in that case.
> > You may also have a bad head gasket causing the compression to be down
if
> > they are adjacent cylinders.
> >
> > Jon
> > STL MO
> >
>
> Ok, if I'm just doing the seals, I still gotta remove the heads so I don't
> droop a valve into the block. Am I correct??
>
> I'll be the first to say that this rebuild is probably a piss-poor job to
> say the least. The more I think about it, another engine is probably a
> better solution in the long term.
>
>
> --
> Gary Hedlin
> www.garyhedlin.com
> (slowly getting there)
>
>
>
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