Damn, that sounds like it takes the fine motor skills that I donšt have! :)
I do want to thank everyone for their input, and hopefully a good night's
sleep will help me digest all of this and let me decide what to do1
Gary
On 7/18/04 10:03 PM, in article cdfdka$rnf$1@bent.twistedbits.net,
"jon@dakota-truck.net" <jon@dakota-truck.net> wrote:
>
> Gary Hedlin <garyhedlin@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> : Ok, if I'm just doing the seals, I still gotta remove the heads so I don't
> : droop a valve into the block. Am I correct??
>
> Hi Gary,
>
> I don't recall how the piston to valve clearance is on the
> Magnum engines, but what you should be able to do is to pull all
> of the spark plugs, then working on one pair of valves (intake &
> exhaust) at a time, turn the engine by hand or carefully bump
> the starter with the coil wire removed in order to get the
> piston for the cylinder you are working on near TDC. (Use
> something like a straightened coat hanger through the spark
> plug hole to feel the piston coming up.) It doesn't matter
> if it is TDC on the intake or exhaust stroke, all you want
> to do is get the piston up near the top of the bore so that
> the valves won't drop down into the block. Compress the valve
> spring, pop out the keepers and pull the spring off the valve.
> Chances are, the valve may even stay put. If not, at least
> it will hit the piston instead of dropping down into the block.
> Then you can pull the old seal, install the new one and put the
> spring back on.
>
> I have used this method in the past with great success (for
> example when installing a checking spring to dial in a cam, or
> measure piston to valve clearance, you don't want to have to
> pull the heads just for that.)
>
> If for some reason the pistons do not come up high enough in
> the bores to prevent the valves from dropping down inside, you
> may be able to hold the valve in place with a strong magnet
> or a thin clamp under the spring as you pull the keepers, then
> use a spring clamp or something to make sure it doesn't drop
> down in. I think the "TDC method" should work for you though.
> I should think that its a mighty low compression motor that
> would allow the valves to drop into the block with the cylinder
> at TDC.
>
> I hope that helps - good luck!
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