On Aug 20, 2004, at 18:49, DAKSY wrote:
> Before you buy some more carbide masonry bits, why not get some TiN
> Coated
> Carbide drills?
Too late! ;-)
I'm going to see where I can get with the bits I bought tonight.....
if they fail then I'll look harder. Tractor Supply and Home Depot both
suck in the drill bit department. I was directed to a smaller (yay!)
shop in Dunkirk, didn't make it there before they closed. Stopped to
help a guy who lost his drive shaft.....
> The masonry bits are designed to "plow" thru concrete...If you get a
> real
> drill, it'll have cutting edges
> & may last longer,
Not what I was seeing from the TiN coated bits I started out with -
they'd be dulled in under 10 minutes - the rough edges the tap had to
begin with just ate them up. I'm going to start out with a normal bit
again tonight since I've finally got a smooth hole to work in (thanks
to the carbide tipped masonry bit), but I'm expecting little to
nothing. I wonder if I would have any luck with heat-treating
them...... I suppose I could try on one I've re-sharpened a few times.
cherry it, quench it, and see what changes =)
> especially if you flood it with cutting oil...
Definitely keeping it well oiled.
> Better yet, I'd try a LEFT-handed carbide drill...Ya might get it to
> bite
> into the tap & jar it loose enuff to thread itself out...HTH,
Would be wonderful - but I first I don't think this drill press is
reversible and second, that would require an even better-even better
selection of drill bits. When the 64th sizes stop at 3/8", and the
only things over 1/2" are 3/4", that's far, far too much to ask. (I
need a 21/64 and a 43/64. If I get the tap out I think I can safely
settle for a 5/8" to do the job of the 21/64, but the 43/64 is for
press-in studs, so I don't want to fudge more than 1/64 on it. There
was definitely no 21/32, but they didn't even have an 11/16)
> (What ya REALLY need is an E.D.M!)
I'd settle for a Bridgeport. Patience is easier when things aren't
walking on you. Since I couldn't flatten out the top of the tap, bit
walk has been a major problem. My hole is definitely off-center by a
long shot, but it's only about 1/32" into the wall of the hole, so I'm
going to keep going.
The 1/4" bore I have is mostly removing two flutes, so after it's
through I may be able to work the tap free. If that fails, I'll try to
start another bore in the opposite void to weaken it further, and I
should be able to take it out with a punch with no trouble at all in
that case. Though I might have to close up the resulting hole a bit
before retapping for the helicoil. Or there's always helicoil + JB
weld. I've had good results with that in the past, as long as there's
enough surrounding metal for the threads to bite a bit - otherwise it
will pull out of thin material (1/4" is my experience with that)
-- Mike Maskalans <http://mike.tepidcola.com/dodge/> '84 RamCharger Daily Driver '98 Dakota under the knife mobile.612.618.4652 home.585.935.7129 fax.360.364.3930
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